CHAPTER 1

Nightmare on the Christena

It was about 3:30 the afternoon of August 1, 1970. The seawas calm, blue, and inviting. A warm Caribbean sun still shonebrightly, as the crowded ferry Christena, loaded with an expectantweekend crowd, swayed, rolled, and danced across the ocean onits usual afternoon run from St. Kitts to Nevis. However, thedie of doom had been cast. The Christena was on its final runbetween the islands, with an illegal passenger load, more thantwice its registered capacity of 155. She would never make thecrossing to Nevis that afternoon. Rather, the ferry suffered a tragicand catastrophic fate when it sank suddenly, tossing everyoneaboard to the mercy of a forever waiting sea. That afternoon, in asudden, unguarded moment, almost 250 persons died a horrific,untimely death.

When the story of the ferry's sinking became known, a blanketof gloom swept over the people of both St. Kitts and Nevis. Theterrible news, combined with the falling shadows of evening,quickly drove the sun and mirth from the lives of Nevisians andKittitians at home, and everywhere else in the world. Everyonehad a relative, friend, or neighbor, who had been snatched awaywith Christena, not to be seen at home, in the villages, on thestreets, at the churches, or on the job again—forever!

Long after the sun returned, the smiles and joyful spirit ofthe people did not. Rather, the shadows and the gloom stayed inthe lives and being of the people. They would not go away! Theemotional shroud brought on by such sudden deaths just wouldnot be lifted. Two entire societies, one on Nevis, the other onSt. Kitts lay dazed, trapped by a common tragedy. So, too, wererelatives and friends throughout the Caribbean and elsewherein the world. Like battered, bruised, and disoriented travelers,they all lay worn, burdened, and groping in shock. Many personsstruggled with fear while others were writhing in anger. Therewere also those among an aching people who dangled dangerouslyon a precipice of insanity. What a time it was for Nevisians andKittitians to find themselves numbed by overpowering gloomand helplessness!

It was Saturday before August Monday, usually a joyfulholiday, since it memorialized the abolition of slavery in theislands, back in 1838. Many persons were beginning to savorthe long summer holiday from school. Weddings were planned.Travel abroad to visit family, friends, and lovers was on the mindsof many. There were also preparations ongoing for horse races onNevis. Other plans for bacchanal were afoot to commemorate thejoyful memory of the freedoms that have come since the abolitionof slavery, and growing dreams of more political empowerment.Many Nevisians had also travelled to St. Kitts to shop, trade, orfor other reasons. August Monday was still two days away.

However, for all those people heading for the ferry thatafternoon, Nevis was now! Some did not want to miss the horseraces scheduled on the island for Monday. Many Kittitians and"people from away," migrants returning home for vacation, alsowanted to be on Nevis. They intended to check out the races, seethe island, and reunite with family and friends—just have a goodtime back home. Despite the ferry's limited passenger capacity(155 passengers), more than 300 persons were waiting to board.They all were bound for Nevis and intended to get there by ferrythat afternoon. Nothing gave a hint of imminent danger. Eventhe calm, blue, waiting sea belied the impending horror about tovisit the islands. Further, harmless-looking ripples caressed thesurface, as the ferry Christena rocked gently at the pier, waitingto receive the long line of Nevis-bound passengers. Some weredressed in bright holiday outfits. Others, such as butchers andhucksters, in work clothes. And, there were those in ordinarydress too. But the three nuns in religious regalia stood out, as thewaiting group began a slow, funeral like march, to the Christena,before it left at 3:30 p.m., that afternoon; the scheduled time forits departure from St. Kitts. There was usually no cut off timeand hardly any need to hurry. If you made the boat you couldget on. No matter the size of the group, few passengers wereever turned back from the ferry. There were many occasions,including that afternoon, when it went back to the pier for onemore passenger.

A sign on the ferry said 155 passengers. But, on suchafternoons, no one counted passengers or tickets in advanceon the Christena. As many people as were waiting, could boardthe boat. A commuter just had to be there before the ferry left.That was the practice. Despite the many premonitions, therewas no reason seen that Saturday afternoon, why things shouldbe different. Talk about the large crowd at the pier was driftingacross Basseterre. Since Nevis was where the action was, noneof the fun lovers wanted to miss it. They were determined totake the hour ride across. Captain James Ponteen was aroundwith friends. He was firing a rum with the boys, when he heardabout the crowded situation at the pier. Back then, there was oneferry. It made one trip to each island in the morning and one tripto each island in the afternoon. There were very few occasionsthen, when the ferry made an extra trip—even when everyonewas certain it was overcrowded. That afternoon, it appeared thatPonteen decided to leave the pier a few minutes early to avoidsome of the crowd. Consequently, the Christena left the TreasuryPier in Basseterre just before 3:30. However, when the captainlearned that one of his huckster friends was late and she couldbe seen rushing across the pier with her baskets, he backed upto allow her on board. The friend, Pappy Liburd, and two otherpersons who were destined to participate in that Christena eventmade it aboard. Pappy's leap onto the ferry was very athletic. Thecrowd aboard, including Captain Ponteen, applauded her. Afterthe stragglers were on board, Christena headed toward Nevis.None of those aboard, joking, drinking, or simply looking acrossto Nevis expectantly, was aware that afternoon's trip would bethe ferry's final crossing. Probably no one even thought aboutit then. Pappy Liburd seemed in good spirits because as soon asshe settled down, Pappie opened a bottle of liquor and started todrink. When another passenger chided her, Pappy simply repliedin her Nevisian tongue, "A wha eh be" (So what?).

On that fateful afternoon, Christena's passenger load consistedof a wide range of age groups, lifestyles, and backgrounds. Sonny(Parks) Walwyn and Orville Morton were government officersfrom Nevis who worked in St. Kitts. Also on board, were NurseArthurton, of Charlestown, who was stealing a day off, andNurse Lorraine Griffin from Butler's, on a weekend off from theHospital in St. Kitts. There was Carmen Joseph, too, a teacher fromNewcastle. She was planning her trip to the US Virgin Islandsfor summer vacation. From Brickkiln were Linda McQuilkin,a recent graduate from St. James School, and Donnie Browne,a student at Charlestown Secondary School. However, thosewere just a few of the passengers who were present at that greatgathering on the Christena. The ferry began to dance dangerouslyfrom one side to the other, right from the start of its journey.Some of the passengers who survived the incident, suggested itappeared the captain got little response from the controls.

Seemingly, the Christena behaved as if it were an unwillingparticipant in destiny. Later, as part of the investigation, fourdivers went down to the Christena. They found that the throttlewas still in the full-forward position. The rudder and othersteering apparatus were also intact. Despite the uneven dance ofthe ferry, its three hundred plus passengers soon began to passthe time casually, expecting to arrive in Nevis safely and on-time.Some chatted and joked with friends. Others were having a smallholiday party in the Captain's cabin. Meanwhile, there were somewho cautiously changed position, moving upstairs as water cameinside the lower section of the ferry, each time it rolled from oneside to the other.

Orville Morton, a well-known Nevisian cricketer wascelebrating his birthday, thus the small party aboard. That partyalong with Pappie on the deck, appeared to have been the extentof the drinking of liquor aboard that afternoon. Morton had sentsomeone to buy more liquor, but that person missed the ferry.Still, a feast sans booze was in progress. Some of the passengershad also brought goat-water aboard. It was then, and still is, apopular holiday dish in St. Kitts and Nevis. Most of the feastingwas taking place inside the captain's cabin. But, a few passengers,including, Anthony Nisbett of Brick Kiln Village, were seeneating outside the cabin's door. Meanwhile, it was becoming morenoticeable that water continued to enter the lower portion of theferry. It was increasingly uncomfortable for passengers traveling inthe second-class section of the boat. Still, no sudden disturbanceof the water had become evident. However, as Christena nearedNags' Head, the last section of St. Kitts, before it entered the openchannel between the islands, the rolling movement grew morepronounced and vigorous. Suddenly, the ferry lost all sense ofbalance. For the first time that afternoon, some passengers beganto question their wisdom in deciding to make the trip under suchcrowded condition. At that point, however, all aboard were in,and totally committed to the ensuing fate.

It was just after 4:00 p.m. The captain had turned thecontrols over to his first mate, Frank (Matthew) Tyson. It wastime to collect the fares and that was done by Captain Ponteen.As the captain moved about the ferry collecting fares, he couldhear comments about the frightening movement of the ferry. Itwas because of concern for the comfort and security of passengerswhy Captain Ponteen suggested crew members adjust the positionof some the cargo. The captain also asked some passengers tochange places, in an attempt to bring equilibrium to the ferry.Despite the precarious situation, some of the passengers movedreluctantly. Others did not move at all. After all, they had seenthe ferry dance on the water before.

Notwithstanding, concern increased when none of theadjustments the captain made steadied the Christena. Accordingly,Doldria Nolan, a passenger from Mt. Lily, Nevis, suggested tothe captain that he try sailing the ferry closer to land. CaptainPonteen's response was, "It's calm enough to make it the way weare going." Unfortunately, Doldria and two of her sisters diedin the accident. They knew how to swim but had no experienceswimming out in the ocean, almost one mile from land. RupertWade and Earle Parris were traveling in a fishing boat behindChristena. They had gone to St. Kitts to sell fish and were on theirway back to Nevis. As they sailed in the wake of the ferry, theycould not avoid noticing how it rocked and rolled in the water.The two men soon observed the rhythm in the dance of the ferryhad increased to a danger point. They became convinced that theChristena could not travel much further in that manner. It wouldnot make it to Nevis in safety without some mishap.

When Rupert left St. Kitts that afternoon his intention wasto beat the ferry across to Nevis. He and Earle had a head-start.They were certain Christena would meet them in Nevis. As fatehad it, however, their engine developed some trouble and slowedthem down. Thus, the Christena passed them and at that pointwas in the lead. Once the engine was running again, Rupertdecided to retake the lead. But as he closed in on Christena,his seaman's instinct would not allow him to pass and leave theseemingly doomed ferry behind. Rupert's girlfriend, baby, acousin, and many friends were aboard. He just could not sail onto Nevis when it seemed that something very ominous was aboutto happen.

Unfortunately for Rupert, he never saw the family he hadon board the ferry again. Although he was there when it allhappened, his child, his girlfriend, and his cousin, died thatafternoon. He could not save them. However, his quick thinkingand committed perseverance contributed to saving many of thepeople who did survive the disaster. Once Rupert realized thattragedy was imminent, he acted. He and Earle signaled the ferryto cut speed. They also suggested that it sail closer to land. Earleand Rupert were certain their signals were seen by the crew ofthe Christena, but there was no change in its trajectory, speed,or unusual movements. It did not matter how the men from thefishing boat tried, there was no response to any of their signals.Rupert remained at the helm of the fishing boat. His companionEarle had strict orders to keep his eyes glued to the ferry. Basedon what they saw, the two men in the boat expected passengersto start plunging into the water at any moment. Their wait wasnot long.

Earle sounded the alarm as the Christena rolled violently. Atfirst it was one man. Then other passengers started falling into thesea. Even when the sea is rough, the extended guitar-head portionof St. Kitts provides added shelter for the sea before crossing thechannel between the islands. As boats move into the open sea,away from Nags Head, the very area where Christena was sailing,they move into the Narrows' Channel. Since there is no moreshelter from the extended area of St. Kitts, rougher movement ofthe water becomes evident. That was part of the problem the ferryencountered, as it made its burdened journey to Nevis, August1, 1970. It barely survived the sheltered portion of the journey.Now, the ferry was unable to negotiate and survive the increasedswells encountered in the open channel. The danger mountedand the death knell rang right after the ferry entered the channel.Suddenly, the Christena was sinking. Everyone aboard was havingan encounter with death—staring death straight in the face. Atthat point the ferry had taken on its limit of water. The captain'sskill, luck, or prayers could not prevent disaster. The accidentoccurred just about one mile, or 1.5 km off Nags Head.

The Nightmare

The ferry made its final roll. Then the nightmare began.Passengers jumped or fell into the sea as the boat started tosink. First the right side, then her stern plunged into the sea.Passengers could be heard crying, praying, or cursing in responseto their sudden dilemma. Former passengers were swimming,thrashing in horror, or just lying there in the water. Others wereclinging to the ferry as it lingered briefly on the surface, sinkingslowly. Many of the passengers were already dead, the pressure ofthe water having trapped them inside. When the force of waterslammed the cabin door shut, all the passengers feasting insidecalled out in desperation for help. However, there was confusioneverywhere and no one could help them. Meanwhile, buoyantbenches inside the ferry, designed as vehicles to life and safety,became weapons of death, as they floated about inside the boatstriking anyone in their path. Swimmers who fell clear of thesinking ferry tried to swim away as fast as they could. Overcomeby great fear, other passengers clung to the Christena's bow. Atthe same time, passengers such as Livinstone Sargeant, JosephBudgeon, the first-mate, Frank Matthew-Tyson, and someothers, were struggling to make it outside the boat. Their fightwas against time, gravity, and ultimately death.

Frank recalled that Budgeon climbed over him, while he(Frank) held on to the steering wheel. Fortunately, all three menhad a will to live and survived the ordeal. There were the dead,the bleeding, and the horrified, dying everywhere around them.Instantly, the surrounding water had become a crowded flotsamand jetsam—with boxes, baskets, bodies, and struggling passengersall afloat on the surface. Helpless children, desperate men, andwomen, were all there—most of them dying. Unfortunately,many of those left alive in the water could not swim. Othershad no will to try. They were too shocked and disoriented, evento attempt saving their own lives. Seemingly, the anticipatedoutcome of that mishap left many who dared to think, too dazedto be altruistic at that time. More than one hundred persons wereclinging rigidly to the slowly sinking bow. It was a desperate searchfor safety and life as they saw overwhelming danger and death allaround them. Their bewildered utterances were loud, desperate,and unforgettable. Some were prayerful, others blasphemous,but all very sad. The ongoing scene of confusion recreated thedrama at the Tower of Babel—there was a need for calmness andcommunication, but the situation of desperation allowed neither.