I took up climbing taking while at school in Llandudno in the 1970s and arguably became the best climber in the world during the 1980s continuing to operate at the highest level throughout the 1990s. I'm most proud of probably being the first to climb 8a+, and then 8c+ (sport), the first to on-sight 7b+, 7c, 7c+ (sport) and the first to climb 8B (bouldering). Much of my success, I always felt, came from my mental approach to the sport, something I reveal the tricks of in my book Mastermind.
My notable climbs include:
Master's Wall, Cloggy, E7.
Super Crack, Shawangunk, USA (1982) - first on-sight of this grade.
Oyster, Pen Trwyn, Wales (1983) - first ascent of world's first sport 8a[.
The Face, Altmühltal (1983) – first ascent, considered the first 8a+ (5.13c) in history.
Heisse Finger, Germany (1983) - world's first 7c to be on-sighted.
Pol Pot, Verdon (1984) - world's first 7c+ to be on-sighted.
Liquid Ambar, lower Pen Trwyn, Wales (1990) - first ascent of the world's first 8c+.
Evolution, Raven Tor (1995) - first ascent.