The Western Isles is a chain of over 200 islands to the west of Northern Scotland which stretches 200km (130 miles) from the Butt of Lewis in the north (58031N, 6016W) to Barra Head (56046N, 7039W) in the south. The islands are between 50km (30 miles) and 100km (60 miles) from the Scottish Mainland across the Minch and the Sea of the Hebrides and cover about 2,900km2 (1,118 miles2).

The islands were referred to by Scottish Gaels as Innse Gall - Islands of Strangers - the Norsemen. They are also called the Outer Hebrides - "Hebrides" probably arose from the Greek "Hebudes" by mistranscription. Today the Gaelic influence remains strong, but Norse is still evident in many of the place-names. About 27,000 people inhabit 12 of the islands, with the majority of the population living in Lewis (about 22,000). The main town and ferry port is Stornoway with a population of about 8,000.

From Scotland the Western Isles appear as a long series of hilltops on the horizon, and when approached from the east they at first seem rocky and bleak, with many inlets and small rocky islands. In contrast, on the west side there are many sandy beaches and attractive bays, with relatively few high cliffs.

Communications with Mainland Scotland are very good. The Isle of Lewis runs between Stornoway and Ullapool, while The Hebrides connects Tarbert in Harris with Uig in Skye and Lochmaddy in North Uist. In the south, the Clansman links Lochboisdale in South Uist and Castlebay in Barra with Oban. Scalpay is connected to Harris by a bridge, while Eriskay, Berneray and Vatersay have causeways now. There is a ferry link between Harris and North Uist, and also from South Uist to Barra. Air links with Inverness and Glasgow and an inter-island air service are run by British Airways Express. Highland Airways operates services to Inverness.

Although the earliest written references to the islands are probably in the Norse sagas, which date from the 12th century, it is possible that Pytheas the Greek may have visited Lewis around 325BC during his voyage, when he established the latitude of the Stornoway area. It was not until the late 17th century, however, that detailed accounts began to be made about visits to the area. In more recent times many eminent people have visited the Western Isles and a number have written in various terms about their experiences.
There are a number of distinguished local authors, and there is always a good selection of local books available in the bookshops, many in Gaelic. The library in Stornoway has a good reference section for those wishing to consult the many books which are "out of print".

The purpose of this Guide is to help visitors to the islands appreciate the Western Isles and enjoy their time here to the full. The idea is that the reader can assimilate information without effort and yet rapidly find out what he or she would most like to see and do, depending on interest, season or weather. There are so many things to see and do that a lifetime is not long enough!

Although the landscape is beautiful, history everywhere, and wildlife to rival anywhere on Earth, there is another aspect of the islands which is perhaps the most important and rewarding to get to know - the local people themselves. They are a friendly, hospitable people, mindful and respectful of their past and at the same time go-ahead and industrious. Do not hesitate to ask the way, or about things - you are sure to get a courteous reply - and if you are lucky you might get a few good stories as well! There is a saying in the Western Isles that "When God made time he made plenty of it", which describes the apparent pace of life in the islands rather well.

A good map is a great help on all such visits and the Tourist Board produces a useful one on a scale of 1:125,000. The Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 series covers the Western Isles in six sheets, and is recommended for all serious explorers. While many of the places mentioned in this book are signposted, many are not, and OS references are thus given for many sites of interest.

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The Western Isles Guide Book (Charles Tait Guide Books)

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