Useppa: An Ongoing Journey provides an in-depth account of the ten-thousand-year history of a magical island off the southwest coast of Florida. Useppa: An Ongoing Journey travels through ten thousand years of the island's inhabited history. The journey begins with the Calusa Indians, the island's first known inhabitants, and then moves on through the influence of the Spanish, Cuban fishing ranchos, the Civil War, the Bay of Pigs, influential owners, famous guests, archaeology, an entrepreneurial purchase, devastating hurricanes, fun stories shared by present day residents, and so much more. Useppa is a true island off of the southwest coast of Florida and is a place to visit like no other. The authors will take you on a magical trip through Useppa: An Ongoing Journey.

USEPPA

An Ongoing JourneyBy Ken Birt Pat Birt

iUniverse, Inc.

Copyright © 2012 Ken and Pat Birt
All right reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4759-5156-1

Contents

Foreword..........................................................xiiiIntroduction......................................................xv1. Who were the first Inhabitants?................................12. What Happened on Useppa from 1560 to 1895?.....................83. John Roach and Tarpon Fishing..................................164. Barron Collier.................................................225. Slowdown and Secrecy...........................................336. Snow and Turner................................................407. Gar Beckstead – The Beginning............................468. The Return of Useppa...........................................519. Hurricane Charley..............................................6210. Archaeology of Useppa.........................................7311. Barbara Sumwalt and the Museum................................8912. Useppa at Play................................................10013. The British Are Coming! ... and More..........................11214. What Does the Future Hold?....................................132Closing...........................................................137Acknowledgements..................................................139Photo Credits.....................................................141End Notes.........................................................143Index.............................................................157

Chapter One

Who were the first Inhabitants?

Paleo-Indian Migration and the Calusa Indians

Useppa Island is Formed

There was a time when what is now referred to as Useppa Island was not an island at all but part of the mainland lying in the southwestern portion of the Florida peninsula. What is now Useppa Island was more than sixty miles from the water.

The ice age was coming to an end and the resulting meltdown caused a rising sea level creating what is now referred to as Pine Island Sound and islands off the mainland. Among these barrier islands were Cayo Costa, North Captiva, Captiva, Gasparilla, Sanibel and Useppa. The creation of these islands would have occurred no earlier than 4000 B. C.

The history of Useppa Island can be better appreciated through a comparison of the island's history with world history. The timeline comparisons are based on a study underwritten by the Barbara Sumwalt Museum located on Useppa Island. At the time of the creation of Useppa as an island, agriculture and pottery making were taking place far away in the Fertile Crescent. The Fertile Crescent included an area known as Mesopotamia between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers in what is now known as Iraq.

Calusa Indians in Florida

It is believed by some scholars that the migration from Asia into the North American Continent took place over a land bridge that connected Siberia with Alaska. The migration would have begun around 15000 B.C. Gradual southern migration brought Paleo-Indians (defined as the earliest known humans to inhabit America) to the Southeast and eventually to the Caribbean and Florida. Paleo-Indians would have been attracted to the Useppa area because of the presence of fresh water streams and higher elevation.

Dr. William Marquardt, an archaeologist from the University of Florida, states that the Calusa had no written language, so no written language comparison can be made with any other known culture. Dr. Marquardt, when asked from where the Calusa came, stated, "The Calusa were indigenous to Florida." This means no proof has been found of the Calusa residing anywhere prior to their Florida habitation. Of course, the Calusa came from somewhere, but no proof has been found to substantiate their origins.

Human Occupation on Useppa Dates Back 10,000 Years

It is interesting to note that habitation on Useppa predated the building of Stonehenge by as many as 4,000 years, the building of the Great Pyramids by as many as 6,000 years and the biblical reign of David and Solomon in Israel by over 6,000 years.

The earliest evidence of human occupation on Useppa, according to Dr. William Marquardt in The Archaeology of Useppa Island, is a lanceolate hafted biface, a Santa Fe Point, found in 1985 and dated to 8000-6500 B.C. The Santa Fe Point is dated on a stylistic basis, as related to known stratigraphic sequences in other parts of Florida. That is, its form is recognized and can fit it into a broad time frame based on other known sites that have stratification. The Santa Fe is a point of the latter part of the Paleo-Indian period dating from 8000 B.C. to 6500 B.C. The Late Paleo points, such as the one found on Useppa, tend to have concave bases and basal grinding. The lanceolate hafted biface is defined as being a leaf-shaped projectile point made to be hafted or fastened to wooden spears. The point was chiseled from chert, a fine-grained sedimentary rock. This find was made by Bill Hopp, a Useppa staff member. He gave it to Gigi Mills, a Useppa resident. William (Bill) Marquardt, an archaeologist with the University of Florida, was shown the point. Bill observed that the point had archaeological value. The point confirms Useppa habitation to as early as 8000 B. C.4

In this book, the term "Indian" will be used since most documentation refers to Native Americans by this term. No disrespect to the first inhabitants of the Americas is intended.

Possible Roots of the Calusa

When Europeans arrived, the Calusa Indians called most of the southwest portion of the Florida peninsula their territory. They built canals to reach the Caloosahatchee River on which they could travel across Florida to Lake Okeechobee. But, from where did the Calusa come? What were their roots?

The Arawaks were a peaceful race of Amerindians, meaning indigenous peoples of the Americas, who were conquered by the warlike Caribs who for centuries dominated the Caribbean islands and their culture. The Arawak Indians were also known as Taino although both the names Arawak and Taino were given to the race by Europeans in the sixteenth century. The Arawak referred to themselves as the Lokono which in their language meant "The People." The Lokono later began to call themselves the Aruacas.

The English called them `Caribbees,' `Charibs' or `Caribs' and the French called them `Caraibes'. It has been reported by various sources that the Carib were ritually cannibalistic. However, many scholars feel that depicting the Carib as cannibalistic is incorrect. Dr. Marquardt states that there were instances of cannibalism in certain cultures; it is probable that the Caribs got this reputation from the Spaniards, in their attempts to convert the Indians to Christianity. Many were not converted. The Spaniards would refer to the unconverted in negative ways and would even say, "They are heathen. They even eat human flesh." Hence, the rumor was born.

Having shared facts about other Amerindian groups, we can say that we do not really know from where the Calusa came. There have been no artifacts found that would suggest that they came from the Caribbean. Let it suffice to say that we find first evidence of the Calusa in Southwest Florida and go with Marquardt when he says the Calusa were indigenous to Florida.

Calusa People and What We Know

MacMahon and Marquardt state in The Calusa and Their Legacy that documents from the Spanish and other European nations record details about Calusa towns and the people who lived there. These documents tell of their customs, spiritual beliefs and political practices. The authors also state that archaeology reveals much about Calusa life. Finds have revealed tools they made and used, foods they ate and their artistic expression.

The Calusa and Their Leadership

Calusa leaders inherited their position from their kin. A chief's son would assume the role of chief upon his father's death. The chiefs were referred to by the Spanish as cacique. The Spanish said that the Calusa society was separated into two classes, "nobles" and "commoners". The three primary leaders were the cacique, the spiritual leader and the military leader who were all considered nobles. Nobles had access to food that was not available to the commoner. They did not work nor did the warriors under the leadership of the chief.

Calusa Clothing and Ornamentation

Both the men and women only wore the briefest of animal hide or mat coverings. They did adorn their bodies with paint and valued personal adornment. Pedro Menéndez de Avilés, the Spanish Governor of Florida in 1566, was reported to have met with the Calusa leader, Caalus. The Calusa leaders were dressed in their finest clothing and their bodies were painted. Their adornments included the feathers of many birds.

The women adorned their bodies with necklaces and ornaments made of shark's teeth or small seashells and bone. The shells were perforated at the tip and hung as beads.

Much of the food was gathered from the sea including fish residing in the waters off Useppa as well as shellfish. Oysters, as a food staple, date back to the Middle Paleolithic period but were definitely in evidence during the Calusa residence on Useppa. Other sources of wild food included sea grapes, papaya, prickly pear fruit, and hearts of palm.

Calusa Homes and Transportation

Calusa homes, specifically the foundations, were constructed of shell and clay that were mixed.

When the men went out to fish or travel to the mainland or another island, their mode of transportation was canoes. They sometimes fastened two canoes together with a center deck covered with awnings and matting. No ancient canoes have been found in Southern Florida, but have been found in abundance in Northern Florida and have been radio-carbon dated as early as 5,000 years ago.

Religious Beliefs

The Calusa were a religious people and held religious celebrations. Attempts were made to convert the Calusa to Catholicism. MacMahon and Marquardt note that the Spanish attempted to preach, bribe and even threaten the Calusa to accept Catholicism, but the Calusa remained faithful to their centuries-old convictions.

The Calusa believed that each person had three souls. One resides in the pupil of the eye. Another resides in the shadow that each person casts. The last is present in the reflection one casts in a calm pool of water. When a person dies, two of the souls leave the body, but the one resident in the pupil of the eye remains with the body always. It is present there so that those still living can ask advice of it. Hence, the Calusa would go to the burial site and could ask an ancestor for advice. We wonder, do we do the same thing when we go to a family member's grave and share our lives and perhaps ask for advice?

The Calusa buried their dead in special mounds or middens consisting of sand and shells. An adolescent burial was discovered near the periphery of a midden on Useppa dating to 2130–1790 B.C. Near the present day Collier Inn on Useppa, a number of burials were discovered dating to the Caloosahatchee II period (500-1200 A.D.). Only two were removed but more remain unexcavated. (For more interesting information on archaeology and Useppa, See Chapter 10.)

Calusa Extinction

Dr. Marquardt states in "The Emergence and Demise of the Calusa" that although the once mighty Calusa nation resisted conquest for over two hundred years, they ultimately fell to slave trading, disease, warfare and political struggles that derived from European colonization. Indian people inhabited Useppa Island for thousands of years, but evidence of their habitation ended in the 18th Century.

What happened during the Sixteenth through the Nineteenth centuries on Useppa? Read on and see.

Chapter Two

What Happened on Useppa from 1560 to 1895?

More Facts

The Spanish and Cubans

In 1492, Christopher Columbus claimed the Florida area for Spain and that country controlled Florida for over three-hundred years from 1513 until 1822 with the exception of twenty years (1762 until 1782) when the British gained control. Exploration of Florida by the Spanish took place. Juan Ponce de León, the Spanish explorer and conquistador, was wounded by a Calusa arrow and later died.

There were some years of peace between Spain and the Calusas. Pedro Menéndez de Avilés, a Spanish Admiral and the founder of St. Augustine, went so far as to marry the Calusa Chief Caalus' sister. Chief Caalus' name was revised to "Carlos" by the Spaniards. However, the relationship between the Spanish and the Calusa deteriorated. The Spanish thought there was a plot by the Calusas to kill the Spaniards, and they killed Chief Caalus (Carlos) and his successor. Relationships deteriorated even further with the Calusa causing the Spanish to withdraw to Cuba. By 1711, the Calusa no longer had the protection of the Spanish and many were enslaved by the Creek and Yamassee Indians. A small number of Calusa fled to the Florida Keys and many of them migrated to Cuba. Many of the Calusa died of disease brought by the Spaniards both in Florida and Cuba. In 1760, the rival Indian tribes forced the last Calusa to leave Florida for Cuba where they were assimilated and the once powerful nation ceased to exist.

Cuban Fishing

When the British gained control of Cuba, July 1762, restrictive trade practices employed by the Spanish were relaxed. The Cuban economy, including fishing, began to expand. Reports by Bernard Romans in A Concise Natural History of East and West Florida, published in 1775, include descriptions of activity around Useppa. Cuba returned to Spanish rule in 1782 and the Cubans began to establish fishing communities on the outer islands of Southwest Florida.

A prominent ship captain, José Caldez, first visited Useppa in 1776. Twenty years later, he created a fishing rancho named Cayo tio Sespas on Useppa. His fishery caught mullet, salted them and transported them to Cuba. Caldez referred to the island as "Josefa" which was later Italianized to "Giuseppe," and eventually transformed to "Useppa," probably the accurate story of how the island got its name.

In 1821, Spain ceded Florida to America for five million dollars. A customs house was built on the north end of Useppa and the Caldez fishery was reported to be quite substantial although charges were brought against Caldez for avoiding customs. It was also suspected that smuggling was taking place. At that time, there were fifteen dwellings on the island, storehouses, fifty men, plus children and women. In January 1833, Caldez recorded the first known deed to Useppa, selling the island for $373 to Joseph Ximenez.

Joseph Ximenez

The deed showing the transfer of Useppa to Ximenez by Caldez for $373 is on display at the Barbara Sumwalt Museum on Useppa and reads as follows:

Charlotte Harbor Territory of Florida County of Monroe

Know all men by these presents, that I, Joseph Caldes of Tio Sespes, for and in consideration of, three hundred and seventy three dollars, lawful money to me in hand paid by Joseph Ximenes of Key West, the receipt whereof I do hereby acknowledge, have bargained, sold, the Key Sespas which I live on and have for forty five years past, with improvements, by these presents do bargain, sell and deliver unto the said Joseph Ximenes.

To have and to hold the aforesaid bargained premises, unto the said Joseph Ximenes, his executors, administrators and assigns for ever.

And I, the said Joseph Caldes, my executors and administrators, shall and will warrant and defend the same, against all persons, unto the said Joseph Ximenes, his executors, administrators and assigns, by these presents.

In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal this 23 of January in the year of Our Lord 1833.

He not knowing how to write makes his cross Joseph [x] Caldes

In presence of George Eldredge Jr. Asa Sawyer George E. Brown

Note that Caldez is written as Caldes. Useppa is written as Key Sespes and Ximenez as Ximenes. Whether these names are misspelled or correct is unknown.

At that time, the island was known by various names: Caldez's Island, Toampe, and Josefa. The customs agent of that time, Henry Crews, was formerly a doctor. He arrived on Useppa in July 1833, and was despised by the Indians who reportedly killed him. It has been reported that a band of Seminole Indians attacked Useppa, burning the customs house and destroying the Caldez fishery. However, certain scholars report that some of the burning was done by American soldiers fearing these locations were being used by Indian sympathizers. José Caldez left Useppa at approximately age 90 having resided there for 49 years, longer than any landowner to date.

Seminole Wars

The name Seminole comes from the Spanish, "Cimarróno," meaning "untamed," a name given to a group of remnant tribes residing in Florida about 1778. These tribes included the Creeks, Hitichis, Yamasees, Apalachees, Alabamas, Mobiles, Choctaws, Chickasaws and Houmas. They ranged from Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi into Florida. In 1817, Florida was still Spanish territory. But, due to conflicts between the Seminole and new American settlers in the territory, Andrew Jackson, commanding three-thousand soldiers, entered Florida and burned Seminole crops and their village of Miccosukee. This action started the First Seminole War. The U. S. took possession of Florida from Spain in 1821 under the terms of the Adams-Onís Treaty. The Seminole were now under U. S. jurisdiction. A treaty was signed giving the Seminole land east of Tampa Bay.

In 1832, the Payne's Landing Treaty took away all Florida land claims from the tribe. It also provided for the removal of the Seminole to Indian Territory in Oklahoma. Admiral Edmond Gaines was reported in the National Archives as saying, "Let us move these miserable Indians to the west." The treaty was ratified in 1834, supposedly giving the Indians three years before being moved. However, the U. S. interpreted the three years from 1832 which meant the Indians would be removed in 1835. The Seminole, on the other hand, interpreted the agreement to begin on ratification in 1834. This disagreement was the cause for the Second Seminole War or Great Seminole War. One of the Seminole chiefs, a leader in the Second Seminole War, was Oceola.

Oceola's name at birth was William Powell. The war lasted seven years and ended in 1842. As the war continued and bands of Seminole surrendered, they were transported to the Indian Territory in Oklahoma under military escort. Many of those being moved died enroute. The Great Seminole War ended with several hundred Seminole remaining in Florida. They fl ed into the swamps and never surrendered. Their descendants are the Seminole of today. They refer to themselves now as "the unconquered people."

(Continues...)

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