A guide to Scandinavia which covers Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Finland. It features in-depth accounts of all the main towns, critical reviews of accommodation, restaurants and bars, practical guidance on the great outdoors, and discussion of politics, architecture and the environment.
WHEN TO GO Deciding when to go isn’t easy since, except for Denmark, Scandinavia experiences intense seasonal changes. The short summers (roughly mid-June to mid-August) can be as hot as in any southern European resort, with high temperatures regularly recorded in Denmark, southern Norway and Sweden, and the Baltic islands. Even the northern areas of each country are temperate, and the whole of the Norwegian west coast, for example, is warmed by the Gulf Stream. Rain, though, is regular, and in the far north of Norway especially – and to a lesser extent in Sweden and Finland – summer temperatures can plunge extremely low at night, so campers need decent equipment for extended spells of sleeping out. One bonus this far north, though not exactly a boon to sleep, is the almost constant daylight provided by the Midnight Sun. The summer is celebrated everywhere with a host of outdoor events and festivities, and is the time when all the facilities for travellers (tourist offices, hotel and transport discounts, summer timetables) are functioning. However, it’s also the most crowded time to visit, as the Scandinavians are all on holiday too: go either side of summer (late May/early June or September), when the weather is still reasonable, and you’ll benefit from more peace and space. Autumn, especially, is a beautiful time to travel, with the trees and hillsides turning golden brown in a matter of days. In winter, from November to around late May, only Denmark retains a semblance of Western European weather, while the other countries suffer long, dark and extremely cold days. The cold may be severe, but it’s crisp and sharp, never damp, and if you’re well wrapped up the cities at least needn’t be off-limits – though, unless you’re exceptionally hardy, the far north is best left to its own, gloomy devices. You’ll find broad climatic details in the introductions to each country; for mean temperatures all year round, check the temperature chart below.
WHAT TO TAKE It’s as well to give some thought as to what to take – and worth packing that bit more to stave off hardship later. Expect occasional rain throughout the summer and take a waterproof jacket and a spare sweater. A small, foldaway umbrella is useful too. If camping, a warm sleeping bag and good walking shoes are vital (and useful, too, in sprawling cities and the flat southern lands). Mosquitoes are a pest in summer, especially further north and in lake regions, and some form of protective cream is essential. For winter travel, take as many layers as you can pack. Gloves, a hat or scarf that covers your face, thick socks and thermal underwear are all obligatory.
