Jenne, one of the most talented, innovative and fashionable of all European pastry chefs, provides 25 spectacular recipes that will enable you to make easy cakes and cookies.'
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How many of us, I wonder, would care to spend much time decorating cakes? We might perhaps feel we had better things to do. Decorated biscuits, too, might not be quite compelling, having about them an air of village fetes, the plates of iced digestives in competition, grim or touching depending on your mood. Gerhard Jenne's Decorating Cakes and Biscuits is designed to put all this to rights. It is state- of-the-art, leading- edge, avant-garde cake-ditzing. Jenne himself is in demand with "the rich and famous" and "stars of stage and screen". Perhaps it is best to start with the book's grand finale, an extraordinary baroque fantasia of a cake, shaped like a traffic cone, draped with ribbon and sprouting sunbursts, seahorses, starfish and branches of coral at intervals. En route to this triumph we learn, on the biscuit side, how to make Two-Tone Cookies, variously patterned brown and white with mingled chocolate and vanilla doughs (the effect is of Battenburg Cake on acid), Gingerbread Cats and Santas, and Happy Sun and (spooky, these) Halloween Cookies. Cakes start promisingly with a most elegant Lemon Victoria Sponge decorated with a stencil pattern in cocoa powder, take a turn for the worse with Coiffured Carrot Cake (don't ask), but recover with the strangely voluptuous Chocolate Velvet Cake, loosely draped with a soft, irregularly folded icing. After all this visual merchandising it is useful to be reminded that "food must always give pleasure to your taste buds as well as your eyes". --Robin Davidson
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