Avoid being offended, or worse offending Morocco locals, instead familiarise yourself with local customs and cultures by reading "Culture Smart! Morocco". This handy, pocket-sized book will help you to ease your way into a different culture and will assist you in making sure you don't develop incorrect stereotypes. Good preparation can go a long way in readying yourself for your journey. Whether you are setting off to Morocco in order to travel, learn, work or relocate, "Culture Smart!" will provide you with a wealth of information on everything from climate, population, doing business, nightlife and so much more. "Culture Smart! Morocco" offers an in-depth insight to the customs and cultures of Morocco, an area where many other guidebooks only scratch the surface.
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JILLIAN YORK is an American teacher and writer who lives and works in Morocco. A graduate of Binghamton University with a B.A. in Sociology, specializing in North African and Middle Eastern Studies, she studied Arabic at Al Akhawayn University in Ifrane, Morocco, as part of her degree course. She currently teaches English as a foreign language at the American Language Center of Meknès.
Map of Morocco,
Introduction,
Key Facts,
Chapter 1: LAND AND PEOPLE,
Chapter 2: VALUES AND ATTITUDES,
Chapter 3: BELIEFS, CUSTOMS, AND TRADITIONS,
Chapter 4: MAKING FRIENDS,
Chapter 5: DAILY LIFE,
Chapter 6: TIME OUT,
Chapter 7: TRAVEL, HEALTH, AND SAFETY,
Chapter 8: BUSINESS BRIEFING,
Chapter 9: COMMUNICATING,
Appendix: Phonetic Guide to the Arabic Alphabet,
Further Reading,
Resources,
Acknowledgments,
LAND & PEOPLE
GEOGRAPHICAL SNAPSHOT
Morocco is one of three countries — along with Algeria and Tunisia — that make up North Africa, or the Maghreb (meaning "the West" in Arabic). Approximately the size of Sweden, it is still primarily a rural country. With a population of some 33 million, Morocco has only two cities with a population of over 1 million and only three more that approach this figure.
Geographically, Morocco is both "the gateway to Africa" for Western travelers and "the gateway to Europe" for many Moroccans. Across the Strait of Gibraltar, it is only some 8 miles (13 km) from Spain; in the east, it borders Algeria; in the south, the disputed Western Sahara and, beyond, Mauritania; and to the west, the Atlantic Ocean. While Morocco has no overseas territories, it contains within its borders two Spanish exclaves, Ceuta (or Sebta, in Arabic) and Melilla.
Morocco boasts over 2,200 miles (3,540 km) of coastline bordering the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Oceans. It is also home to four mountain ranges — the rugged Rif Mountains in the north; the Middle and High Atlas, which create a natural division between the coastal regions and the Sahara; and the Saharan Anti-Atlas range. Morocco boasts North Africa's highest peak, Jebel Toubkal (13,650 feet, or 4,160 meters).
The varied landscape includes sandy desert, stony steppes, over 500,000 acres (202,343 ha.) of cedar forest and, most notably, argan forests. The squat and heavily fruited argan tree is indigenous to Morocco and grows mostly in the south. Argan oil, which is used for cooking and is extremely time-consuming to produce, is exported to several countries at a handsome profit.
CLIMATE
Due to its long coastline and its mountain ranges, Morocco has the most varied climate in all of North Africa. Summers are hot and dry while late fall and spring are rainy. Snow falls consistently in the Middle Atlas regions surrounding Azrou and Ifrane during winter, and across all of the high mountain peaks. While Marrakech may be comfortably warm in midwinter, one can see the snowcapped peaks of the High Atlas from the city. Particularly notable are the winds: chergui, a dry southeasterly wind, and gharbi (from gharb, meaning west), a cold wet westerly wind. They are responsible for both rain and drought in Morocco.
CITIES
Casablanca
Morocco's largest city is Casablanca, with a population of approximately 3.8 million. This cosmopolitan city is now the country's industrial capital, though for its size and scope it has a surprisingly brief history — most of the buildings date from the years of the French protectorate. There is a small medina (walled Islamic city, as found in most Moroccan cities), which provides evidence of its former existence as a provincial town. The most striking landmark in Casa, as it is commonly known, is the Hassan II Mosque, built in 1999 and paid for almost entirely by public donations (at a price tag of more than half a billion US dollars). Its minaret is 689 feet (210 meters) high and its workings are strikingly high-tech, including centrally heated floors and a retractable roof.
Rabat
Most foreign residents live in Casablanca and Rabat (metro area population approximately 1.4 million), Casablanca's equally modern sister and the current capital of Morocco. Rabat's modern downtown is somewhat reminiscent of Paris — if the French capital were to have palm trees and year-round sun. The city has a fine medina, dating back to the seventeenth century.
Rabat is perhaps more refined than Casablanca, and is home to some excellent restaurants, as well as several American and European fast-food chains, and to plenty of nightlife, mostly of the upscale variety. The city is also home to the majority of foreign embassies, though some consulates are located in Casablanca.
Marrakech
One of Morocco's former imperial capitals, Marrakech (pop. 970,000) is no less glorious today. Its ochre buildings (the city authorities have stipulated that all new buildings must also be this color — even McDonald's fits the mold!) and medieval sights make it a unique tourist destination, but the city is also quite modern and chic in its own right. Every fall, it is home to a film festival that attracts both Moroccan and Hollywood filmmakers and stars.
Fès
Fès (also spelled Fez; pop. 1.2 million) is the oldest of the former imperial capitals and has long been considered the center of both Islam and cultural sophistication in Morocco. Its ancient medina is unique in that it is one of the largest living medieval cities in the world. Here, one can stroll through the streets and encounter ancient customs and entirely modern workings side by side — it is not uncommon to see an old man followed by a donkey, with the donkey straining under a case of Coca-Cola. The Fez Medina Project (www.fesmedina.com) is working to restore the area, which is struggling under the burden of its million or more citizens. UNESCO has declared Fès a World Heritage Site, and is also working to preserve the ancient city.
Meknès
Only an hour west of Fès, Meknès is another former imperial capital; however, the cities are as different as night and day. While Fès teems with life and spirituality, Meknès is slower and calmer, and its inhabitants are friendly and welcoming. There are few foreign residents here, though the total population of the greater Meknès area is thought to be around 1 million. Meknès is split between its medina and imperial city and the new, French-built ville nouvelle (new town), which contains modern creature comforts such as several modern supermarkets. Meknès is situated near two of Morocco's most important historic sites — the Roman ruins of Volubilis and the holy town of Moulay Idriss. It is surrounded by vast areas of agricultural land, rich in olives (and olive oil), grains, and grapes for wine. Aicha, a large company that produces oils, jellies, and other cooking supplies, is based outside Meknès, as is the Les Celliers de Meknès winery.
Agadir
The southern city of Agadir (pop. 400,000) is best known for its beaches. Popular with foreign and Moroccan tourists alike, this destination city was entirely rebuilt following a devastating 1960 earthquake. Already popular for package tours, Agadir has become an even more sought-after destination following the introduction of inexpensive flights from Europe on low-cost airlines such as Ryanair.
Ifrane
Ifrane, by no means a large city, is only of interest to foreigners because of its prestigious English-language university, Al Akhawayn (www.aui.ma). The university, founded in 1995 by King Hassan II and King Fahd of Saudi Arabia, caters mainly to the children of wealthy Moroccans; classes are in English and are based on the American system. Various areas of study are offered at undergraduate and graduate levels, and the university hosts many foreign employees and exchange students. In the summer there is an intensive Arabic program, which is of interest to anyone planning to remain for some time.
A BRIEF HISTORY
Although Morocco has only been an independent state since 1956, its history is as rich and complex as its people. Over time and due to its prime location, the influences of various cultures have shaped Morocco, ultimately contributing to its fabulous diversity. The following is only a snapshot of the country's fascinating past, but it provides a glimpse into the ancient culture that gave birth to present-day Morocco.
The Original Moroccans
Indigenous to Morocco are the people now known as the Berbers, also referred to as Imazighen (sing. Amazigh). Little is known of their origins, though they probably came from southwest or central Asia as early as 10,000 bce. They are thought to have migrated over time to North Africa, where they inhabited the Mediterranean coastline from Egypt to the Atlantic. Berbers today vary greatly in physical appearance as a result of thousands of years of mixing with other ethnic groups.
"Berber" is the ancient Arabic name for the inhabitants of North Africa, perhaps from the word barbara, meaning "those who babble confusedly" (which may itself be derived from the Greek barbaria). The Berbers were, and to a degree remain, a tribal people. They have clung to their identity, as well as to a traditional pastoral mountain existence or a nomadic desert one. Centered around clan and tribe, ancient Berber society was relatively isolated until the rise of the great Mediterranean empires.
Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans
In the first millennium bce, Phoenician traders spread across the North African coast, establishing their capital at Carthage (in present-day Tunis). They founded the settlements of Tingis (Tangier), Mogador (Essaouira), Tamuda (Tetouan), and Lixus (Larache). They were followed shortly afterward by the Greeks, who settled in various locations across North Africa. It wasn't until the Punic Wars, fought against Rome in the third century bce, that the Carthaginians were finally defeated.
Though Carthage was successfully defended in the First Punic War (264–241 bce), the Second Punic War (218–201 bce) found the Romans controlling local leaders and constructing new settlements. In the Third Punic War (149–146 bce) Carthage was destroyed and its possessions became the Roman province of Africa. The city of Volubilis, just outside modern Meknès, became an important outpost of the Roman Empire. It is the best-preserved Roman ruin in Morocco, and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
Throughout these conquests, many Berbers, who were concentrated in mountain areas where others dared not venture, continued to live in the manner to which they had been accustomed for centuries. Those traders who came into contact with them formed mutually beneficial alliances.
With the fall of Rome at the end of the fifth century CE, the Byzantines and the Vandals both attempted to fill the power vacuum, but to no avail; Berber tribes succeeded in recovering their land, at least for some time.
Arab Conquest and Islamization
With the death of the Prophet Mohammed in 632 CE, Islam began its westward spread and by the end of the century conquering Arab armies had arrived in Morocco. Many Berbers welcomed the security provided by these latest invaders and converted to Islam, molding it to their own cultural traditions. Rather than move on as their predecessors had done, the Arabs stayed in Morocco, expanding trade ties and opening overland caravan routes across the Sahara. They allowed Berbers into the ranks of the military and into politics, provided they were willing to embrace Islam; for the Berbers, therefore, the incentive to convert was not only spiritual.
In theory, the Maghreb was under the rule of the Caliphate in Baghdad. However, Berbers and Arabs alike chose to adapt Islam to local conditions, and established an independence that was to continue for centuries. Morocco never again came under the rule of the East — not even that of the Ottoman Empire.
Moroccan Dynasties
The great Arab historian and philosopher Ibn Khaldun (1332–1402) based his model of dynastic cycles on this next period of Moroccan history. He saw a constant conflict between the cities and the countryside and demonstrated that the Berber kingdoms had a tendency to rise and fall over a similar pattern. The rural Berbers were drawn periodically to the easier life of settled areas, and thus to the conquest of towns. The vigorous first generation of rulers continued to live an austere and simple lifestyle, the second adapted to urban culture, and the third generation, removed from its roots, succumbed to internal conflict. The fourth and final generation saw their subjects as sources of wealth that could be drained to expand the empire, but ultimately this process was too rapid to be sustained. Their collapse left a power vacuum that another rural-based dynasty would then fill.
The Idrissids (789–985)
The founder of the first Moroccan dynasty was Idriss I, a Shiite political exile from Mecca who established himself outside the ancient Roman city of Volubilis in the eighth century. The northern Awraba tribe of Berbers found an ally in Moulay Idriss and recruited him as their imam (religious leader). Soon the Idrissid dynasty was dominant throughout northern Morocco. After the assassination of Idriss I by his enemies, his son succeeded him as imam at the age of eleven. Idriss II built an impressive capital, Fès, thus creating the first Moroccan state. The Idrissids were overthrown by Berbers in the tenth century and Morocco broke up once more into small tribal states.
The Almoravids (1073–1146)
This state of anarchy came to an end when the Almoravids rose to power in the eleventh century. A mélange of three Berber tribes from the Sahara, they founded Marrakech as their capital before moving north to create an empire that embraced Morocco, parts of Algeria, and Spain. The Almoravid dynasty adhered to a fiercely fundamentalist form of Islam; "Almoravid" literally means "veiled ones" and comes from the practice of wearing a veil across the face.
The Almohads (1147–1269)
True to Ibn Khaldun's model, the Almoravids soon fell and were succeeded by a rival Berber dynasty, the sectarian Shiite Almohads. The new dynasty kept Marrakech as the capital. They built the famed Koutoubia Mosque and extended the empire eastward, but their piety soon waned — corruption once again took hold, the dynasty weakened, and later they lost most of Spain.
The Merenids (1269–1465)
The successors to the Almohads were the Merenids, a group of nomadic Zanata Berbers, who seized Marrakech in 1269. The Merenids never managed to achieve the opulence of their predecessors but did manage to last for two centuries, ruling all of Morocco.
The Saadians (1554–1629)
In the sixteenth century the Moroccan empire split into two separate kingdoms, based in Fès and Marrakech. In 1492 the last Muslims were expelled from the Iberian Peninsula, and in the fifteenth century Spain and Portugal captured and occupied Morocco's ports. Resistance to the Christian threat was led by religious leaders, one of whom established the Saadian dynasty in 1554. The Saadians were Sharifians, tribal descendants of the Prophet. Ahmed al-Mansour ("the Victorious") restored the unity of Morocco and defeated Sebastian I, King of Portugal, decisively at the Battle of the Three Kings, where he was proclaimed Sultan in 1578. He repelled an Ottoman invasion, conquered the Sudan, and named Marrakech his capital, adorning it with marble.
The Alawites (1666–)
The death of Sultan al-Mansour in 1603 led to a long struggle for the succession. The Alawites were the next to step up to the throne. They too were Sharifians, and Moulay Rashid was their first leader. On his death, his half brother Moulay Ismail began his long reign (1672– 1727), which signaled a new era for Morocco. Ismail was a cruel but effective leader. From 1672 he revived Moroccan power and, from his capital of Meknès, he managed to break the pattern of dynastic cycles, capturing European-held strongholds and creating a secure kingdom. Meknès has been referred to as the Versailles of Morocco. The Alawite dynasty still rules today.
The Moors
While Europe was entering the Dark Ages, Arab civilization was flourishing. In the eighth century, the combined Berber–Arab armies of Tarik ben Ziyed crossed the Straits of Gibraltar into Spain. In Andalucia (Al-Andalus) and elsewhere they created a sophisticated multiethnic society. Arab scholars brought with them Arabic translations of the Greek classics and their own scientific knowledge, and ushered in a period of cultural and intellectual cross-fertilization. They established a Caliphate at Córdoba in 929 that was independent of Baghdad. In the eleventh century, the Almoravids were called in from Morocco to help defend the city from Christian attack, and stayed to reform Islam in the region. The Almohads followed in the twelfth century, remaining until they were ousted by the Castilian conquistadores at the Battle of Toledo in 1212. The Catholic reconquista of Spain continued for several centuries until the fall of the last independent Muslim kingdom, Granada, in 1492.
Both Muslims and Sephardic (Spanish) Jews sought asylum and were welcomed in Morocco, where their skills and talents were appreciated. Many resettled in Salé and Rabat.
European Advances
Most of Morocco's ports had been captured by Spain and Portugal by the fifteenth century. In the nineteenth century Morocco's sovereignty was further eroded as its strategic importance and economic potential attracted the interest of Europe's imperial powers. In 1854 Sultan Abd ar-Rahman, who supported the Algerians in their war with France, was defeated at the Battle of Isly. In 1856, under British pressure, he opened Morocco to European commerce. In 1860 Spain invaded, and Morocco was forced to cede it the southwestern region of Ifni. In 1880 the major European powers and the United States agreed at the Madrid Conference to preserve the territorial integrity of Morocco and to maintain equal trade opportunities for all.
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