It isn't easy being the commercial, media and glamour capital of the world's most diverse and exciting country, but Mumbai manages it with a panache that is at once exciting, exhausting and inexplicable. Home to 13 million people of every shade and culture from all over India, and growing every day, Mumbai is in a state of constant flux. Cranes dot the skyline as old makes way for new even as the movement to preserve the city's heritage gains momentum. The city has changed dramatically over the last few years: bars and restaurants have mushroomed, local entrepreneurs and designers have started to celebrate the city they live in and work has finally started on the much-needed metro rail. Meanwhile, a short plane-ride away, Goa remains a laidback paradise, but one that is shedding its hippie stereotype and beginning to address the needs of the more upmarket traveller.
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Leo Mirani edits the nightlife section of Time Out Mumbai and contributes to the film, food and city sections. He has written for Agence France Press, Tehelka, Elle and Maxim India and has lived in Mumbai all his life.
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