INTRODUCTION
Dangling off the northwest coast of mainland Greece, at the point where the Adriatic meets the Ionian Sea, the lush green sickle of Corfu (Kérkyra) is the closest Greek island to Italy and almost brushes against Albania to the north. Historically, the island has always been on the margins of mainstream Greek history and at the mercy of northern invaders, whose cultures, particularly those of the Venetians and the British, fused with that of the island. Although not the largest of the Ionian Islands, it has long been the cultural heart of the group and the best known to foreigners, especially as it was one of the first Greek destinations to attract large numbers from abroad.
Corfu has some of the best beaches in the archipelago – no fewer than 33 of them were awarded blue flags in 2002 – with idyllic bays that still retain echoes of the "delectable landscape" Lawrence Durrell described in Prospero’s Cell. In the last decade islanders have worked hard to dispel the questionable reputation Corfu earned with the coming of mass tourism in the Sixties. Although there are a couple of destinations on the island where visitors still come to party hard, the majority of the resorts are relaxed, family-friendly affairs. These days you are as likely to meet someone visiting Corfu on a hiking holiday, or renting a villa, as holiday-makers on all-inclusive packages. Even the busiest resorts are only a few minutes’ walk away from quieter coastline and the interior. A little exploration further afield soon reveals authentic villages and unspoilt rural areas, where agriculture – the other mainstay of the island’s economy – thrives.
Corfu is a holiday destination that people return to again and again; many northern Europeans have been coming to the island for twenty or thirty years. One of the reasons they return – beyond the landscape, the sunshine and some of the finest swimming and watersports in the Mediterranean – is the welcome extended at all but the largest resorts. The Corfiots’ friendliness and kindness to strangers – the quality of filoxenía – can still astonish with its generosity and grace.
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The Rough Guide to Corfu is a pocket-sized guide to this beautiful and popular Ionian Island to help you get the most out of your holiday, whether on a pre-arranged package or travelling independently. The guide gives critical coverage of the towns and attractions, from the major resorts to boat trips to lesser-known beaches and villages. There are comprehensive and up-to-the-minute recommendations of the best places to stay, eat and drink. The Contexts section gives lively coverage of Corfu's cultural and historical heritage, including the best books and films that have covered the region.
Nick Edwards started exploring Greece independently while studying Classics and Modern Greek at Oxford and went on to spend a decade living in Athens, teaching and travelling widely in Greece, where he first visited Corfu in 1983. He now lives in Pittsburgh, where he manages to keep track of his beloved Spurs on cable TV.
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