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Synopsis
Adding names and dates to a Swedish weave or huck embroidery piece creates a unique one-of-a-kind item that is sure to be cherished for years to come. You will love personalising your projects with this wonderful book filled with a variety of alphabet and numeral styles. Whether you are just beginning or have been stitching for years, you will find this book filled to be in invaluable resource for customising your han-stitched piece for yourself or to give as a gift. There are 11 unique and fun projects in this book plus numerous border patterns that can be used to embellish any number of pieces.
"synopsis" may belong to another edition of this title.
About the Author
Katherine Kennedy became enamoured with Swedish weave many years ago but couldn't find patterns for this new found needlework. Making her own designs was just the natural thing to do. Within just a short time, she was selling her items at shows and in local Scandinavian shops and started teaching. She now has a full line of chartpacks and kits that are distributed world wide. Katherine's inspiration for designs comes mostly from her head, but she really has been inspired by some of the old pattern books from the 30's & 40's that she was able to find. She lives in Minnesota with her husband Mark, and they have 6 children and 3 grandchildren.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
Alphabets for Swedish Weaving & Huck Embroidery
By Katherine KennedyAnnie's
Copyright © 2016 Annie's
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-59012-361-4All rights reserved.
Contents
Pattern Services and Revisions,
Introduction,
Meet the Designer,
General Instructions,
Alphabet Samples & Border Charts,
Vertical Bookmark,
Horizontal Bookmark,
Key Chain,
Coaster,
Letters & Lace Wall Hanging,
Personalized Kitchen Towel,
Child's Wall Hanging,
Sunglasses Case,
Grandma's Special Pillow,
Keepsake Table Topper,
Uppercase Alphabet Charts,
Lowercase Alphabet Charts,
Blank Chart,
CHAPTER 1
Meet the Designer
Katherine Kennedy has done needlework, mostly cross stitch, for as long as she can remember. But when she discovered Swedish weaving, Katherine just knew this was what she was meant to do. Her other passion is creating, so when she couldn't find patterns for this newfound needlework, making her own designs was the natural solution.
Within a short time, she was selling items at shows and in local Scandinavian shops. Katherine also started teaching, and it was her students who really encouraged her to look into publishing her design patterns. Just over a year later, her first book, Easy-Does-It Swedish Weave Towels, was published. She now has a full line of chart packs and kits that are distributed worldwide.
"Many times I have had someone respond wistfully that they remember their mother or grandmother doing this type of needlework, perhaps even teaching them the basics, and they haven't seen it for years. Just as exciting, though, is the reaction I get from those who are discovering Swedish weave for the first time," says Katherine.
She has been asked if she ever stitches just for fun, or whether it's always for publication or sale. Katherine answers that it is always for fun, because she never tires of Swedish weaving, whether it is creating a new design, stitching one of her many designs, or charting patterns.
Katherine has been inspired by some of the old pattern books from the 1930s and '40s. All of her designs are original with a contemporary flare; even so, she also tries to maintain a more traditional look. She and her husband, Mark, live in Minnesota. They have 6 children and 3 grandchildren, whom they love spending time with. To see more of Katherine's patterns, go to her website: www.swedishweavedesigns.com.
CHAPTER 2General Instructions
The loop stitch, when used to create lettering or motifs or borders, can be done on any fabric used for traditional Swedish weaving and huck embroidery. The loop stitches are always connected with a straight stitch and both stitches are described in detail in the Swedish Weaving Stitch Guide section. A variation on the loop stitch that is sometimes used is called the "twisted loop stitch" and instructions for that are included as well. Whether doing a loop stitch or a twisted loop stitch, the straight stitch is always used to connect the stitches.
When deciding which alphabet style to use, keep in mind the size of the project you are working on as some styles are more appropriate for smaller projects while others are more suitable for larger pieces (Photo 1).
Tools of the Trade
Fabrics
Swedish weaving designs are worked on the surface of the fabric in an even grid. This requires an even weave — either plain or basket weave — in which the vertical (warp) and horizontal (weft) threads are interlaced to form a simple crisscross pattern. Monk's cloth and Aida are examples of basket-weave fabrics with groups of vertical and horizontal threads in a checkerboard pattern.
Swedish weaving is commonly done on 7–14-count basket-weave fabrics. Fabric count refers to the number of squares per inch in even-weave fabrics as shown in Photo 2.
While there are other even-weave fabrics that could be used for Swedish weaving, such as monk's cloth and Stockholm fabric, the projects in this book were stitched with Aida cloth and huck toweling. Also be on the lookout for purchased items like pillows, rugs, tablecloths and blankets in even-weave fabrics that can be transformed into beautiful one-of-a-kind pieces by adding Swedish weaving. This can be done without deconstructing the items since Swedish weaving is a surface embellishment.
Huck toweling (Photo 3) is generally used to make, well, towels! It is also used to make runners, cozies and other small projects. It differs from the rest of the suggested fabrics because it is not an even-weave fabric. The vertical threads in huck toweling are slightly longer than they are wide. So stitches may have an elongated look when compared to the same stitches made on Aida cloth.
Huck toweling is about 14-count, 100 percent cotton and available only in white. It is 16 inches wide and sold by the yard. It is suggested that this fabric be washed and dried before stitching.
Traditionally used in counted cross stitch, Aida cloth (Photo 4) works well for small to medium projects like table toppers, runners, pillows, bell pulls, bookmarks, cozies and garment insertions. Aida cloth is a basket-weave fabric that is available by the yard or precut sheets and comes in a variety of counts and colors.
Swedish weaving is generally done on 11–14-count Aida cloth in either 100 percent cotton or a cotton/poly blend. It is not necessary to wash Aida cloth before stitching. It will soften as you work on it. If prewashing, zigzag-stitch or serge edges first to prevent fraying; wash and dry, removing from dryer before completely dry. Make sure the fabric is straight before starting to stitch.
Stockholm (Photo 5) or popkorn fabrics are very similar with a nice sheen that works well for projects like runners, table toppers and pillows. These elegant fabrics are generally sold by the inch and are costly, but are about 70 inches wide.
Both fabrics are 7-count and are available in a wide variety of colors in 100 percent cotton. It is not necessary to wash and dry this fabric before stitching; it softens as it is worked. If prewashing, it is important to finish the fabric piece edges with a zigzag stitch or serger to prevent fraying.
Monk's cloth (Photo 6) is a heavy fabric originally made from worsted wool and used for monk's habits. Really! Linen monk's cloth is still used for monk's habits or as a base for rug hooking. But the 100 percent cotton variety is a 4 thread x 4 thread, 7-count basket weave available in many colors. It is used in Swedish weaving for afghans, pillows, runners and other larger projects.
It is important to prewash monk's cloth because it can shrink up to 15 percent. Always zigzag, serge or bind the cut edges prior to washing to prevent fraying. This fabric will soften with each washing, another feature that makes it great for afghans.
Thread or Yarn
A variety of threads and yarns can be used to make Swedish weaving designs. Matching the thread/yarn size and look to the fabric being used helps give the impression that the designs are woven into the fabric itself instead of being surface designs.
Always look for colorfast threads and washable yarns, especially for projects like towels where the items will require frequent washing. Be aware that even colorfast colors like red, purple and brown may release color when first washed. Just rinse the project in cold water to get rid of excess dye.
Both threads and yarns are available in skeins or balls.
Pearl cotton thread comes in a variety of sizes and a wide array of colors adding versatility to its durability. Its beautiful sheen gives a touch of elegance to any finished project and complements the sheen of Stockholm or popkorn fabrics.
Match the size of the thread to the type of fabric being used. Of the three most commonly used sizes of pearl cotton, use size 5 or 8 pearl cotton to stitch designs on 14-count Aida cloth. Size 5 can also be used on huck toweling and 11-count Aida cloth. A thicker size 3 pearl cotton works well on 11- or 8-count Aida and popkorn or Stockholm fabric.
Embroidery floss is about the same thickness as a size 5 pearl cotton. Unlike for cross stitch or embroidery, you do not separate 6strand embroidery floss for Swedish weaving. Use all 6 strands on any fabric; however, it does not work well on larger count fabrics like monk's cloth. Make sure the needle eye can accommodate the floss.
Cotton crochet thread does not have the sheen that pearl cotton thread does, but it's a useful and inexpensive alternative with a wide variety of colors. Use a size 10 crochet thread as an alternative for a size 8 pearl cotton thread. Sizes 5 and 3 crochet threads are interchangeable with sizes 5 and 3 pearl cotton.
Worsted-weight and sport-weight yarns work well on larger count fabrics like monk's cloth, matching the weight of the fabric. Baby-weight yarns are usually too fine and get lost in the heavier monk's cloth threads. Be sure to choose a yarn that will not shrink. Design density determines how much yarn is needed on the larger monk's cloth projects. Most designs will use one to two skeins of yarn to make a lap blanket.
Needles
In Swedish weaving, a large-eye, blunt-tip needle is used to insert the thread/yarn under the floats, the strands of vertical threads in the even weave. Needles do not need to pierce the fabric.
The size of the needle required depends on the count of the fabric you are stitching. Remember that the larger the needle size number, the finer/smaller the hand needle will be. Use a needle size that will accept your thread/yarn and will easily slide under the floats or vertical threads in the fabric weave.
Tapestry needles (Photo 8) have blunt tips and come in a variety of sizes. Generally, size 22 is used on huck toweling and 14-count Aida cloth. A size 20 works well on 11-count Aida, popkorn and Stockholm cloth. Use a size 13 tapestry needle for stitching monk's cloth.
Clover bent-tip needles are similar in size to size 20 tapestry needles but with a bent tip and a longer length. Bent-tip needles make it easier to slide under the floats. Their longer length allows you to pick up more floats at a time and stitch a design row more quickly. Use these needles on any cloth that you would use a size 20 tapestry needle on.
A bodkin is a flat needle with a large eye used exclusively for stitching on monk's cloth. It may or may not have a bent tip. The eye is large enough to accept yarns.
Another needle that works well on monk's cloth is a Susan Bates 5-inch steel weaving needle. It is similar in size to the size 13 tapestry needle. Because of its length, you can make quick work of a row of stitching, especially when doing a significant number of straight stitches.
General Tools
Swedish weaving uses many of the same tools that are used in embroidery, cross stitch and tapestry — except for a hoop. Instead of a hoop, position a throw pillow on your lap under your project. The pillow raises the project up several inches and holds it in place providing a relaxing stitching platform.
Any needlecraft requires good lighting. Good lighting increases contrast, which will help with finding the floats on the fabric. It reduces glare, which helps to reduce eye strain and headaches and helps you work longer. A low-heat bulb or lamp is more comfortable to work under for long periods of time. There are daylight bulbs you can use in your regular lamp or there are lamps manufactured specifically for needlework, some complete with a magnifying glass!
For trimming thread/yarn, fringe or projects to size, the best tools are a rotary cutter and mat and a clear ruler. Cutting mats come in a wide range of sizes. Choose a size that handles the sizes of projects you normally do.
Use fabric-marking tools whose marks can be easily removed from your project. The Pilot Frixion pen is available in a variety of colors for marking light and dark fabrics. Frixion marks stay visible until removed with a hot iron, which makes them perfect for handwork. Other choices are chalk, which can be brushed off, and pens that are air and water soluble. Remember that the air-erase pens are only visible for a short time.
Weaving Designs
You will need the following basic sewing supplies and equipment to complete the projects in this book:
• Sewing machine in good working order
• General-purpose thread in appropriate colors
• Hand-sewing needles and thimble
• Straight pins, safety pins and pincushion
• Seam ripper
• Measuring tools
• Iron, ironing board and pressing cloths
• Scissors: fabric shears and paper scissors
• Serger (optional)
Each pattern will have a materials list that will indicate the suggested amount and type of fabric, needles, thread/yarn and any other items necessary to complete the project.
Follow individual instructions for preparing fabric for stitching. General tips are also given in the Fabrics section of Tools of the Trade.
Individual instructions will indicate how many lengths of thread/yarn are needed to complete each row of a pattern. A length of thread/yarnis a piece of thread/yarn equal to one width of your fabric (Figure 1). For example, if a pattern indicates 3 lengths of thread for a row, cut a piece of thread 3 times the width of the fabric piece being used.
When measuring thread/yarn, do not stretch it but allow it to lay across the fabric. Unless indicated otherwise, a single cut of thread in the instructed length will be used to complete a row.
Follow individual pattern instructions to find the center of your fabric and mark it with a fabric marking pen or a safety pin.
If necessary, carefully count floats or measure to the position to begin weaving as indicated in the individual pattern instructions.
Weave your length of thread/yarn through the first float as indicated in the pattern and draw up the thread/yarn until the float is at the center of the length of thread (Figure 2).
Begin weaving the first row in the design referring to the instructions and chart, included in the back of the book working from the middle of the project out to the left, unless indicated otherwise. When the first row is completed, turn the fabric and the chart upside down and work the second half of the first row or the next row out to the left following the chart.
Repeat to weave the remaining rows of the design. In some designs you will be repeating the first row stitched. In others, you may repeat an entire section to create the design. Section repeats are shown in the back of the book. Or you may stitch a mirror image of a row or section to complete the design.
Swedish Weaving Stitch Guide
Swedish weaving is a surface embellishment. Unlike embroidery, cross stitch or tapestry, the needle is not usually used to pierce the fabric in a sewing stitch. The needle is used to weave the thread/yarn under the floats, the vertical threads of an even-weave fabric. This keeps the thread/yarn on the right side of the fabric and makes it appear that the designs are actually part of the fabric weave.
A simple gridded chart is used to show how to stitch the design on any even-weave fabric. The chart will show the threads woven through the floats and provide fabric and design center marks as well as where to begin stitching.
Swedish weaving designs are generally repeating designs made from very simple stitches. You repeat lines of stitching horizontally to create the design (Photo 9).
Standard Stitches
These are the basic stitches used to create Swedish weave and huck embroidery designs. Arrows on the stitch diagrams indicate the direction the thread/yarn should be woven under the floats, and numerals indicate the order of weaving. All Swedish weaving stitches are woven from right to left. Remember that stitches done on huck toweling may look elongated because the floats are slightly longer than they are wide.
Stitching Names, Numbers & Motifs
Before stitching on your project, you might choose to practice various alphabet styles on a scrap piece of fabric to determine which style best suits the project you're working on. Also remember that if the name you are going to stitch has descenders in it, it may affect the layout of your piece, especially if you're creating a piece that has more than one row of lettering, like the Personalized Kitchen Towel. A descender is the portion of some lowercase letters, such as g and y, that extends below the baseline.
There are nine uppercase and four lowercase sets of alphabet charts towards the end of the book. There are also eight numeral charts found towards the end of the book. Once you have determined which alphabet you're going to use, it will be necessary to chart the names/dates you want to stitch. Using the blank chart included at the end of the book or graph paper, write out the letters and numbers for your piece, allowing one straight stitch between each letter/number, unless indicated otherwise. Note that with the project charts included in the book, the straight stitches are already in place, so you need only pencil in the loop stitch portion of the design. Straight stitches are also used for spacing between names and between the name/date and the border. There will always be at least one row of just straight stitches at the top and bottom of the name/date section to allow for spacing between this section and the top and bottom border.
Once you have charted the name(s) and date you intend to use, count out the number of loops and spaces of the bottom row of lettering. Divide that number by 2 and that will be the center of the design. Mark the center on your chart.
Unless indicated otherwise, the name/date section of the stitching will be done before any border is added and will be started in the center of the fabric, with the bottom row of stitching. See individual design instructions for exact specifications on how and where to start your stitching. Note that on some pieces the first stitch will be a loop stitch while on another piece the first stitch may be a straight stitch. This is determined by where the center of the name/date chart is on your piece.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Alphabets for Swedish Weaving & Huck Embroidery by Katherine Kennedy. Copyright © 2016 Annie's. Excerpted by permission of Annie's.
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