Cooking with the Seasons at Rancho La: Recipes from the World-Famous Spa - Hardcover

Deborah Et A Szekely

Hardcover

ISBN 10: 1584797096 ISBN 13: 9781584797098

Publisher: Stewart, Tabori & Chang Inc, 2008

Synopsis

Organized by seasonal menus, a compilation of 120 recipes from the famed Baja California spa emphasizes a simple and healthful approach to eating that combines local, organic, and seasonal foods with extraordinary flavor to create such dishes as Spinach Salad with Roasted Cumin-Orange Vinaigrette, Carrot and Ginger Soup with Pears, and Mayan Chocolate Sorbet.

About this title

About the Author

Deborah Szekely invented the destination fitness resort and spa when she opened Rancho La Puerta in 1940. She opened The Golden Door in 1958, and it has been consistently rated the top spa in the United States. Szekely lives in San Diego. Deborah M. Schneider is a chef and food writer with more than 25 years of culinary experience. She is the author of ¡Baja! Cooking on the Edge. She lives in San Diego. Robert Holmes is a San Francisco–based travel photographer who shoots for such magazines as National Geographic, Life, and Time.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

Cooking with the Seasons at Rancho La Puerta

Recipes from the world-famous spaBy Deborah Szekely Deborah M. Schneider

Stewart, Tabori & Chang

Copyright © 2008 Szekely Family Foundation
All right reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-58479-709-8

Chapter One

SPRING The Miracle

The first warm touch of spring is delicious rebirth. After a long winter, the senses unfold, reawakening to light and smell. The taste of green-clean, flowering, slightly bitter, even tangy-is energizing. The garden is ready to be planted, trees suddenly shimmer with tiny leaves, and the air hums with possibilities. The earth is awake and alive-and so are we. * In early May, la Cocina's floribunda roses are already blooming pink, shell white, and crimson from trellises and archways. Stands of sun-yellow marguerite daisies and a thousand Baja wildflowers wave to be noticed. By a warm stone wall, bees cling to the blue bells of borage flowers that dip and nod under their weight. Vast bushes of Jerusalem sage bloom with clusters of fuzzy yellow flowers, each holding a drop of spicy-sweet nectar in its heart. Stands of calendula, a wash of saffron and sun, line the brick pathways into the garden. Busy gardeners trundle barrow-loads of harvested greens on their way to the Ranch kitchen. The weather is clear and perfect-a wide Baja sky tossed with fat, white clouds tumbling down from mountains the color of Tecate brick. * Spring has fairly exploded in the garden. Neat lines of sturdy green and white kale wave in the breeze. Delicate lettuces colored amethyst and fuchsia and lime green flutter like flags tucked between the sprawling squash vines and long rows of young tomatoes and peppers not yet in flower. By Cocina's courtyard, hollyhocks stand as tall as cornstalks; pink-flowered sweet peas climb the fences with coiled tendrils. * The earth itself seems nearly bare. Still, there's much to inspire the cook ravenous for freshness, for green. We crave the goodness that comes so freely from spring's first burst of growth. Later in the season, as spring slides effortlessly toward summer, come succulent berries, flowering herbs, young garlic and peas, scallions, and even a few tart early tomatoes.

Spring Dinner

* * *

JICAMA SLAW WITH PINK GRAPEFRUIT SHRIMP AND RED PEPPERS ON ROSEMARY SPRIGS BUTTERNUT SQUASH GNOCCHI CANDIED GINGER SORBET WITH BORAGE FLOWERS

* * *

A springtime walk through the garden at Tres Estrellas, when the air is heady with flowers, inspires this menu. Awaken your taste buds with crunchy jicama slaw and succulent shrimp grilled on skewers of flowering rosemary that sparkle with lemon and fresh herbs. Transform lush tropical fruits into the world's easiest frozen dessert, and accent it with blue borage flowers.

JICAMA SLAW WITH PINK GRAPEFRUIT

* SERVES 6 *

Beneath its rough skin, jicama is pearly white, mildly sweet, and addictively juicy and crunchy, especially with a squeeze of lime. Slice it into elegant julienne and mix it with red cabbage and shredded carrots from the garden. The last of winter's limes and grapefruit sparkle in the exotic citrus-based dressing. Use this recipe to inspire seasonal variations throughout the year-Chef Jess often substitutes cucumbers or zucchini in summer and small kohlrabis in fall. In class, he uses this recipe to teach knife technique and how to cut fine shreds (julienne).

1/2 SMALL JICAMA 3 MEDIUM CARROTS, PEELED 1/2 SMALL HEAD RED CABBAGE, CORED 1/4 CUP FRESH LIME JUICE (ABOUT 2 LIMES) 1 1/2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL 2 TEASPOONS MINCED PEELED FRESH GINGER 1 1/2 TABLESPOONS SMOOTH PEANUT BUTTER OR OTHER NUT BUTTER 1/4 CUP COCONUT MILK 3 TABLESPOONS WATER ZEST OF 1/2 LEMON (ABOUT 1 TEASPOON) 1/2 TEASPOON WHITE PEPPER 2 PINK GRAPEFRUITS 6 LETTUCE OR RED CABBAGE LEAVES 6 SPRIGS FRESH CILANTRO

1. With a sharp knife, mandoline, or box grater, cut the jicama, carrots, and red cabbage into fine shreds, and place in a 2-quart bowl.

2. In a blender, combine the lime juice, oil, ginger, peanut butter, coconut milk, water, lemon zest, and white pepper. Add the dressing to the shredded vegetables and toss to combine. Cover and chill.

3. Cut away all the peel and white pith from the grapefruit, then cut alongside each of the membranes to release the grapefruit segments, catching as much of the juice as you can, and add it to the slaw.

4. Serve the slaw mounded on a lettuce leaf and surrounded by a few grapefruit segments. Top the salad with a cilantro sprig.

VARIATIONS

* Substitute napa cabbage, bok choy, or any green that appeals to you, for jicama.

* Chop 1/4 cup unsalted roasted peanuts and mix into the salad.

* Wash, stem, and chop the leaves from 6 sprigs of cilantro or 2 sprigs of basil and stir into the salad just before serving.

SHRIMP AND RED PEPPERS ON ROSEMARY SPRIGS

* Serves 6 *

DEBORAH REMEMBERS ... When I was a little girl, our family lived for several years on a beach in Tahiti. We'd fish in the lagoon from our dugout outrigger canoe, and more than once I'd wake before dawn to hunt shrimp in the freshwater creek that came down from the mountains. We'd fashion torches from dead palm fronds and walk the shallows looking for deeper holes where we could scoop up shrimp trapped by the lower water level. Then at dawn we'd catch the bus into town and sell our buckets of shrimp at the local market. Of course the shrimp from the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez) are very different from Tahitian shrimp, but I love their curled pinkness hot off the grill just the same.

Choose slim but sturdy rosemary sprigs just strong enough to pierce the seafood, or substitute small bamboo skewers. Other herbs such as basil shine in this simple, lovely dish that brings the garden to your plate.

Cooking delicate seafood can be a tricky process. Always marinate the seafood to add flavor and moisture, cook over moderate heat, and most important, don't overcook it!

18 SPRIGS FRESH ROSEMARY (PREFERABLY IN FLOWER), ABOUT 4 INCHES LONG 18 LARGE SHRIMP 2 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL 1 MEDIUM SHALLOT, CHOPPED (ABOUT 1 TABLESPOON) 2 CLOVES FRESH GARLIC, PEELED AND MINCED (ABOUT 2 TEASPOONS) 1 SPRIG FRESH OREGANO, CHOPPED (ABOUT 1 TABLESPOON) 8 LARGE LEAVES FRESH BASIL, CHOPPED (ABOUT 3 TABLESPOONS) 1 SPRIG FRESH THYME LEAVES, CHOPPED (ABOUT 1 TEASPOON) GRATED ZEST OF 1 LEMON 1/2 TEASPOON SEA SALT 1/2 TEASPOON FRESH GROUND BLACK PEPPER 1 SMALL RED BELL PEPPER, SEEDED AND CUT INTO 1-INCH SQUARES 1 1/2 TEASPOONS PAPRIKA

1. Strip the rosemary leaves from the sprigs, leaving one inch on top with leaves and flowers. Soak briefly in cold water.

2. Peel and devein the shrimp, leaving the tails on if you like, and pat dry. Combine the oil, shallot, garlic, herbs, lemon zest, salt, and pepper in a glass bowl. Add the shrimp and toss thoroughly with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

3. Carefully thread a red pepper square onto each rosemary skewer, and follow with a shrimp. Finish with another piece of red pepper. (Use a bamboo skewer to make the holes, then slide onto the rosemary sprigs.) Sprinkle the skewers very lightly with a little paprika.

4. Preheat a gas grill or heat a grill pan over medium heat for 5 minutes. Lightly oil the cooking surface, then cook the skewers for about 3 minutes on each side, or until the shrimp are opaque but still springy to the touch.

5. Serve the shrimp on sauted spinach with Butternut Squash Gnocchi (page 22) on the side.

VARIATION

* Substitute any firm fish, tempeh, or tofu for shrimp.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH GNOCCHI

* Serves 10-12 *

Well into spring, Chef Jess uses the hard squash that grow prolifically at Tres Estrellas-butternut squash and acorn squash are favorites. Gnocchi are easy to make and so forgiving that they are a fun team project with the non-cooks in the family. When made with squash or other orange vegetables, such as yams or sweet carrots, they take on a lovely golden color. When made with pale yellow sweet potatoes, gnocchi are cream-colored and light in texture. Any variety is delicious and can be a great way to incorporate these nutrient-rich foods into your cooking. Once you've mastered the technique, you will make them again and again.

1 3/4 POUNDS BUTTERNUT SQUASH 3 EGG YOLKS 1 TEASPOON KOSHER SALT 1/2 TEASPOON FRESH GROUND BLACK PEPPER 1/4 TEASPOON FRESH GRATED NUTMEG 2 TO 2 1/2 CUPS SIFTED ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR, PLUS MORE AS NEEDED 2 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL SALT AND FRESH GROUND BLACK PEPPER TO TASTE

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. Cut the squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Wrap in foil and bake the squash for about 1 hour, or until very soft.

3. When the squash has cooled just enough to be handled comfortably, scoop out the flesh and either run through the finest disk of a food mill or force through the holes of a strainer into a bowl (to remove any fiber).

4. Add the egg yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg and beat well by hand to combine. Stir in the flour a half-cup at a time. The drier the squash, the less flour you will need, and the lighter the gnocchi will be.

5. When the dough becomes too stiff to stir easily, turn it out onto a well- floured board. Use your hands to work in any remaining flour a little at a time, until the dough holds its shape but is still very soft.

6. Fill a wide, deep saucepan with at least 3 inches of water. Add a heaping tablespoon of kosher salt and bring the water to a gentle simmer. (Don't let the water come to a rolling boil.)

7. Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces. On a floured board, shape each portion into a rope the thickness of your thumb and cut into 1-inch pieces.

8. Lift the pieces from the board with a thin spatula. With your fingers, gently reshape the gnocchi into cylinders and drop them into the simmering water.

9. The gnocchi will sink to the bottom and seem to stick. Don't touch them. In a minute or so, they will release and bob to the surface. After another few seconds, the gnocchi will roll over. Cook for 2 minutes. When they are firm and plump, remove them with a slotted spoon and set on a lightly oiled tray.

10. When all the gnocchi are cooked, wrap and chill them until you are ready for the final cooking. (They may also be frozen at this point.)

11. To serve, bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Drop the gnocchi into the boiling water and cook for 1 minute, then scoop out with a skimmer or slotted spoon.

12. Heat the oil in a large nonstick saut pan. Saut the gnocchi in batches until they are lightly browned on both sides. Season with salt and pepper and serve hot.

CANDIED GINGER SORBET WITH BORAGE FLOWERS

* SERVES 6 *

Borage grows in silvery heaps under the windows of Tres Estrellas' old kitchen. The delicate deep-blue flower bells that sway in every breeze taste faintly and pleasantly of cucumbers. They look beautiful on the sorbet and bring a little of the garden inside. Any sweet edible flower or flowering herb may be used instead.

Jess uses this recipe often, making slight changes based on availability. At the market, use your nose to choose the best fruit. If it smells sweet and wonderful, it's at its height of flavor.

1 1/2 BANANAS (ABOUT 1 CUP), CHOPPED INTO 1-INCH CUBES 2 CUPS RIPE BERRIES, MANGO, PAPAYA, KIWI, PINEAPPLE, OR OTHER FRUIT, PEELED AND CUT INTO 1-INCH PIECES 1/2 CUP FRESH ORANGE JUICE 2 TABLESPOONS FRESH LIME JUICE (ABOUT 1 LIME) ZEST OF 1 LIME 2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS MINCED CANDIED GINGER, OR MORE TO TASTE BLUE BORAGE FLOWERS OR OTHER SWEET HERB FLOWERS, SUCH AS LAVENDER

1. Freeze fruit cubes on a sheet pan for several hours until they are solid. Remove from freezer and let stand about 5 minutes.

2. Place the fruit in the bowl of a food processor with the orange and lime juice, the lime zest, and ginger. Puree until creamy.

3. Add ginger, as needed, to taste. Serve in chilled sorbet dishes, martini glasses, or bowls. Garnish each serving with a few flowers.

VARIATIONS

* Substitute other seasonal fruit as available, but keep the banana-it lends a creamy texture to the sorbet.

* Substitute up to 1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger for the candied ginger.

Tres Estrellas Brunch

* * *

TUSCAN FARRO SALAD TRES ESTRELLAS FRITTATA WITH ZUCCHINI FLOWERS AND GOAT CHEESE ORANGE SAFFRON PINE-NUT BREAD RICOTTA CHEESECAKE WITH BERRIES AND LAVENDER

* * *

The legendary frittata served to guests after the breakfast hike to Tres Estrellas is the center of an easy brunch to share with friends. A deliciously unusual farro salad full of crunchy vegetables and Jess' fabulous Orange Saffron Pine-Nut Bread round out the main course. Dessert is citrus cheesecake, pretty as a centerpiece with lots of agave-sweetened berries and a spike of fragrant lavender flowers.

TUSCAN FARRO SALAD

* SERVES 6 *

Farro was once the food staple of the ancient Romans. Its plump grains are deliciously nutty and chewy. Farro is higher in B vitamins than many types of wheat and may even be tolerated by some wheat-sensitive diners. Jess loves the texture and flavor of farro, but barley or wild rice are good substitutes (see Basics, page 166, for more on unusual grains.) Raw cauliflower and broccoli, broken into tiny pieces, add great flavor and a nutritional boost. Salvador grows bright purple and yellow cauliflowers that add amazing color to salads. The deliciously crunchy, vividly colored salad tastes best at room temperature on a bed of lettuce.

2 CUPS BASIC VEGETABLE STOCK (PAGE 176) OR WATER 1 CUP FARRO 1 RED BELL PEPPER, CUT INTO 1/4-INCH DICE 11/2 CELERY STALKS, CUT INTO 1/4-INCH DICE 2 GREEN ONIONS, TRIMMED AND FINELY SLICED 12 FRESH BASIL LEAVES, CHOPPED 1/2 CUP SUN-DRIED TOMATOES, CUT INTO 1/2-INCH PIECES (SEE NOTE) 1/4 CUP FRESH FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY LEAVES, CHOPPED 1/4 CUP CHOPPED CASHEWS, SUNFLOWER SEEDS, OR PINE NUTS 3 TABLESPOONS FRESH LIME OR LEMON JUICE, OR TO TASTE 2 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL 1/2 TEASPOON SALT 1/8 TEASPOON FRESH GRATED NUTMEG BUTTER, LIMESTONE, OR RED LETTUCE LEAVES, OR 6 CUPS MIXED GREENS 6 SPRIGS FRESH CILANTRO OR FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY (OPTIONAL)

1. In a small stockpot, bring stock or water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the farro and stir. Return to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 35 minutes, or until grain is tender. Drain off any excess water, stir, and cool until the grains are no longer steaming.

2. In a large bowl, combine the farro and the next 11 ingredients.

3. Line 6 salad plates with lettuce or 1 cup of mixed greens, and spoon 1/2 cup of the salad onto the greens. Garnish with cilantro or flat-leaf parsley, if desired.

NOTE: If the sun-dried tomatoes are hard or brittle, soak for 30 minutes in hot water to soften.

VARIATIONS * Add 1/2 cup cooked green peas or edamame (green soybeans).

* Serve with Basil Balsamic Dressing (page 79) on the side.

(Continues...)

Excerpted from Cooking with the Seasons at Rancho La Puerta by Deborah Szekely Deborah M. Schneider Copyright © 2008 by Szekely Family Foundation . Excerpted by permission.
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Edition details

• Publisher: Stewart, Tabori & Chang Inc
• Publication date: 2008
• Language: English
• ISBN 10: 1584797096
• ISBN 13: 9781584797098
• Binding: Hardcover
• Edition number: 1
• Number of pages: 206