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Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow Water (Classic Reprint) - Softcover

Long, Charles E.

 
9781528124249: Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow Water (Classic Reprint)

Synopsis

Excerpt from Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow Water

2. This report is intended for a readership with somewhat diverse backgrounds. As a result, some of the beginning material is basic and can be skipped (or scanned briefly). In particular, the remainder of Part I discusses importance of directional wave measurements, some past efforts in this regard, and some fundamental differences between low and high-resolution directional wave gages. Part II is essentially a tutorial on frequency direction spectra and can be skipped by those familiar with this subject. It also introduces basic notation and some conventional parameters. The reader might wish to scan Part II for these or refer to Appendix B, which lists all notation used in this report. Parameters introduced in Part II are also summarized at the end of Part V. Part III is a description of the measurement scheme, and the remaining parts are discussion and analysis of observations.

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