Synopsis
This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1888 Excerpt: ...the lowest contour to the base, prepared as above described, and levelled; then a flat strip of soft metal, as lead, is bent so that its inner edge shall coincide with the contour, and the strip resting upon the base thus form a mould for the lowest zone. This is then filled with plaster, as hereafter described for the mould, and to a height corresponding to the equidistance; when dry, the next higher contour is transferred to it; the second zone is formed in a similar manner, and so on to the summits. The terraced formation may then be rounded as above described, or by cutting. To make the Mould: construct a strong wooden frame that will exactly enclose the model and extend an inch above it; place it tightly around the model, and with a camel's hair brush, cover the surface of the latter with sweet oil, leaving the sides of the frame dry. Then pour over the model plaster-of-Paris, mixed to a proper consistency with water, filling the frame. After 15 or 20 minutes the mould is removed, dried in the sun or by gentle artificial heat, then given two or three coats of drying-oil, and in about two days is ready for use. For large representations, the model is cut into sections not exceeding 3 or 4 feet square, the frames are made very strong, and each section is moulded separately. To make the Cast, oil the inner surfaces of mould and frame, and pour plaster into it, as for the model. When set, the cast is taken out--a few gentle raps with a hammer near the base of the frame expediting the matter, if necessary--and dried, as above described. It is then given one or two coats of a very thin, hot solution of isinglass preparatory to coloring it. Pieces broken off may be fastened in place with glue, or, when this is impracticable, papier-mac/te' may be shaped to fi...
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