This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1900 Excerpt: ...are not found every year in the same quarters, so that the angler should notice carefully where the fish are in the habit of leaping, and be guided by that evidence in the choice of his swims. In float-fishing, the bait must trip along the bottom. If the swim runs shallow, the angler should let his tackle go until it stops; then hold it a little while--the bait, of course, resting on the ground. The farther the float from the angler, the harder must be the strike. It is time to strike when the float goes under. Another method of float-fishing for barbel is termed "tightcorking." The angler plumbs so that 1ft. or more (the stronger the current, the longer the line below the float) of gut rests on the bottom. He casts the tackle out some distance, and works it down stream as far aa it will go by keeping up the point of his rod as the line runs out, which checks the float and causes the bait to rise from the bottom. When the float is over the fish. he holds it there until he has a bite. This is a very deadly metbod, and can be followed where the bottom is a little uneven. The best swims for the purpose are those which shallow at a little distance from the angler. The float has to be a rather large one (most writers say cork, but I much much prefer quill when I can get one large enough), as a goodly number of shots are necessary to keep the bait down when the float is checked. In barbel, as in all other, fishing, the angler should use as small a float and as few shots as the depth and rate of the current will allow. At the same time, fish are often left uncaught by too few shots being used in swift swims, the bait, in consequence, not keeping near enough to the bottom. Of course, when the swim is very deep, a sliding float (see page 26) will have to b...
"synopsis" may belong to another edition of this title.