The aim of machine lace manufacturers from the very beginning was to imitate handmade laces so exactly as to be indistinguishable from them. In this way they hoped to invade, even take over, an extremely profitable market. A series of matched photographs of hand and machine laces of similar design, sufficiently enlarged to show the relevant structural details, are arranged so that the features - sometimes obvious, sometimes obscure - which distinguish them can be recognised. 96 pp. 240 black and white photographs. Paperback.
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. . for all the lacemakers who have agonised over pieces of lace, magnifying glass in hand, this is the book for them . . -- Jane Rowton-Lee, 'Lace', Summer 1995
. . the author has provided photographs and diagrams of the first order . . an excellent reference for the lace enthusiast . . -- Pat Hallam, 'The Lacemaker', no.31, December 1995.
. . the photographs are extremely sharp at such high magnification, and must be congratulated . . an excellent little book . . -- Glen Richards, 'Guild of Needle Laces Newsletter', no.36, Summer 1995
. .an invaluable backup and soft letdown when faced with: 'I know it's handmade because it was my grandmother's' . . a fascinating read . . -- Betty Franks, 'Textile Fibre Forum' (Australia), no.46, 1996
. .excellent photographs and pertinent information make this a fascinating book . . a valuable tool for the lacemaker . . -- Doris Southard, 'IOLI Bulletin' (USA), vol.16, no.3, Spring 1995-6
The book is divided into three sections: 1. gives a brief description of the 9 major lace machines and illustrates a typical product of each. 2. lists and illustrates details of 15 features which are indications of a machine origin, such as the appearance of parallel lines, a zigzagging effect in the pattern areas, the repetition of errors, and the presence of cut threads along the lower and sometimes upper border of the lace. There is a further series of 13 features which, while indicative, are less conclusive; 8 which indicate a handmade origin; and some others which, though sometimes quoted as diagnostic, are not in fact particularly helpful. 3. 27 handmade laces matched by photographic comparison with machine laces of near-identical designs, show how deceptive superficial appearances can be. For serious students, the illustrations are accompanied by technical details of the features which distinguish the different forms (see an example in Excerpt below).
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