Irene Emery was one of America's leading authorities on ancient fabrics and textiles before her death in 1981. Her studies led her to become increasingly concerned with the haphazard and confusing terminology for describing fabrics in a precise way, and she began serious study of this problem at the Laboratory of Anthropology Santa Fe in 1947, and later at the textile museum in Washington D.C. This book is a result of these studies, recognised as a classic when first published in America. The book's essential strength is its universality: for the first time a definition of the actual structural make up, of fabrics and their component parts is clear and accessible to all, whether the purpose of study is an aspect of design, history, or cultural significance and whatever its scope chronologically or geographically. The structures, and the descriptive terms applied to them, are clearly presented according to their logical relationships to each other, generally moving from the simplest to the most complex. Illustrated with specially constructed and photographed examples, this monumental work is divided into three parts: the raw materials of fabric structures, the fabric structures themselves, and the structures - such as stitches or applique that are accessory to fabrics. The result is a book for all handweavers, craftworkers, industrial designers, art and textile historians, anthropologists and archaeologists.
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Based on years of study of fabrics produced both by hand and by machine, and offers a solid survey of the structural makeup of fabrics and their pieces. Any college-level arts collection strong in fabric art - as well as many needlework library - needs this definitive guide.
Based on many years of study of a huge range of fabrics produced by hand or by strictly limited mechanization, this book's essential strength is its universality: For the first time, whether the purpose of study is an aspect of design, history, or cultural significance, and regardless of its scope chronologically or geographically, a definition of the actual structural makeup of fabrics and their component parts is clear and accessible to all. Unlike process, social context, or symbolic function, structure is - with negligible exceptions - always determinable; it can be objectively observed; and it is varied enough for significant grouping and sub-grouping. In this monumental work, moreover, the structures, and the descriptive terms applied to them, are clearly presented according to their logical relationships to each other, generally moving from the simplest to the most complex. Illustrated with specially constructed and photographed examples made from cotton string and with extant fabrics from different cultures, the book is divided into three parts: the raw materials of fabric structures (fibres, filaments, and fabric elements); then, in the major section of the book, the fabric structures themselves, whether felted - derived directly from fibres - or made from interworked yarns; and, lastly, structures - such as stitches or applique - that are accessory to fabrics.
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