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The clincher, though, is that Paul Burrell used to be butler first to the Prince and Princess of Wales and later to the Princess alone. His pride in having served the Princess, and his affection for her and her memory, are touchingly evident throughout. Many of the recipes are revealed to be royal favourites. Nuggets of information about the running of royal households are discreetly distributed. The risks of kitsch or tastelessness in a project like this, it must be said, are high, and by and large they have been avoided. --Robin Davidson
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