Quick and Easy Boat Maintenance, 2nd Edition: 1,001 Time-Saving Tips (INTERNATIONAL MARINE-RMP) - Softcover

Lindsey, Sandy

Softcover

ISBN 10: 0071789979 ISBN 13: 9780071789974

Publisher: International Marine/Ragged Mountain Press, 2012

Synopsis

STOP WORKING ON YOUR BOAT AND GET OUT ON THE WATER!

Save money and time with these 1,001 tested tips from Sandy Lindsey, a boat-maintenance contributor to Boating magazine for many years. In Quick and Easy Boat Maintenance, Lindsey has culled the best ofher years of advice and gathered the top suggestions from her readers. These handy, natural solutions work amazingly well―and are environmentally friendly.

Boats last longer and look more beautiful with proper care. But that care takes a lot less time when you work smart. See how you can make your winterizing and spring commissioning chores go much faster and learn Lindsey's labor-saving secrets for tackling:

• Teak, canvas, and carpet care
• Painting, metal cleaning, and polishing
• Fiberglass and gelcoat cleaning and repair
• Engine care and winterizing
• Mildew--how to get rid of it, how to prevent it

This second edition is updated with green solutions, information about dealing with ethanol in fuel, howto maintain the new batteries, and an all-new chapter on maintenance aspects of sailboats (sail care,winches, lines, and wire rigging).

Putting the helpful hints of Quick and Easy Boat Maintenance to work can change your boating life.Less time working means more time boating!

"A treasure chest of proven labor-savers that can help get those pesky maintenance chores done faster." -- Observer-Dispatch

About this title

About the Author

Sandy Lindsey (Hollywood, FL) is the author of Quick and Easy Boat Maintenance (International Marine). A contributing editor for Boating Magazine, she has also written for SAIL, Good Housekeeping, Sports Afield, Midwest Outdoors, and Sailing.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

QUICK & EASY BOAT MAINTENANCE

1,001 TIME-SAVING TIPS

By SANDY LINDSEY

The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc.

Copyright © 2012 The McGraw-Hill Companies
All rights reserved.

ISBN: 978-0-07-178997-4

Contents

Preface
CHAPTER 1 ON DECK
CHAPTER 2 HULL WORK
CHAPTER 3 CABIN CONCERNS
CHAPTER 4 THE ENGINE
CHAPTER 5 OTHER CRITICAL BOAT AREAS
CHAPTER 6 SPECIALTY BOATING
CHAPTER 7 WINTERIZING AND SPRING COMMISSIONING
CHAPTER 8 SPECIAL CARE FOR SAILBOATS
CHAPTER 9 MISCELLANEOUS TIPS EVERY BOATER SHOULD KNOW
A Few Last Tips
Index

Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

ON DECK

CARING FOR BOAT METAL

The Original Nonabrasive Stainless Steel Polish

If your stainless steel is slightly discolored, but the stains aren't so badthat they require special treatment, you can save some money on conventionalnonabrasive stainless polishes by sprinkling baking soda on a sponge instead.Scrub down as you normally would, and rinse thoroughly.

Season Your Stainless to a High Shine

To give stainless steel a long-lasting high shine, rub down railings and otherstainless steel with a lemon peel, and then wash as usual. The lemon oil in thepeel cuts through grime that other cleaners may miss and restores luster.

If using a lemon peel is too strange for you, you can use the lemon oil that youuse on your cabin furniture as an excellent substitute to clean stainless steel.

Rubbing alcohol from your boat's first-aid kit works almost as well on stainlessas a lemon peel or lemon oil, and it disinfects.

There's More to Stainless Cleaning than Nevr-Dull

To remove salt buildup on stainless steel, rub on isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Usea 100 percent cotton rag.

To remove rust from stainless steel and most other deck metals, simply sprinklea little bit of salt on the rust spot, and then squeeze a lime over the saltuntil it soaks the salt. Leave the mixture on for 2 or 3 hours. Then gently rubthe spot with an old toothbrush or a piece of crumpled aluminum foil until thespot disappears.

Railings sticky from a child's gooey hands? Pour vinegar or straight lemon juiceonto a sponge and wipe down the goop. Let the vinegar or lemon juice sit for afew minutes to cut through the residue, and then wash off with soap and water.

Drying Is Cleaning, Too

By using a chamois cloth to dry stainless and all other polished metal surfacesafter you rinse the boat, you'll need to polish these surfaces only once eachseason.

Safe Stainless Surgery

When cutting a new section of stainless steel metal railing to size, place adowel inside the metal tube to help it hold its shape as you saw off theappropriate section.

The Aluminum/Bronze Wool Connection

To remove oxidation from aluminum, wipe down with fine bronze wool or a cleanrag dipped in mild laundry detergent such as Wisk. Rinse thoroughly afterwardand protect with a fiberglass wax to retard further damage.

If you get bronze wool slivers in your fingers after cleaning the boat's metal,put white school glue over the spot, allow to dry, and then peel off. The glueshould take the slivers with it.

Silver Polish and Aluminum

Silver polish makes an excellent aluminum cleaner.

Aluminum Do's

Just like wood, aluminum has a grain. Look closely and you'll see it. Always rubon cleaners and waxes in that direction for better-looking results and an easierjob.

Some rusty and tarnished aluminum can be cleaned by rubbing the offending spotswith the shiny side of a crumpled piece of aluminum foil.

Use a bottle cork to clean particularly stubborn rust or metal discolorationspots. Dampen the flat edge of the cork first, so that it absorbs some of themetal polish, and then apply more polish and rub away. When you rub the corkover the spot, its flat surface and naturally abrasive properties do the rest,saving you lots of elbow grease.

Aluminum Don'ts

Here's a great way to get out of some boat maintenance work: Don't attempt toshine aluminum rails or fittings when it's cooler than 50°F outside.Aluminum scratches more easily in cold temperatures.

Keep cleaners containing ammonia away from aluminum, because ammonia pits it.

Acid-based teak cleaners and brighteners destroy anodizing on aluminum. Forproof, check out the feet of a sportfisherman's tuna tower, where it boltsthrough the teak cover boards or rubrails. To prevent a purple, black, orwhitish stain that's irreversible, use plenty of freshwater when rinsing theteak and stop occasionally to rinse off the hull, transom, vinyl, and any othernonteak materials.

Aluminum Painter's Secret

Vinegar can be used to clean and acid-etch aluminum that's about to be painted.

Thrifty Is Nifty When It Comes to Brass

One of the cheapest cleaners for brass can be made at home by mixing 1tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon salt, and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Apply thepowdered mixture with a clean, damp rag and watch the tarnish wipe off as theshine reappears.

For a quick brass cleanup, slice a lemon in half, dip the cut end in salt, andrub it on all the brass fittings and gear on your boat, working in smallsections. Wash with warm, soapy water afterward, and buff dry with a clean rag.

For tough surface discoloration, cut a lemon in half, dust the cut end withbaking soda, and rub on small sections at a time; the baking soda adds thenecessary mild abrasive to scrub your brass back to life.

Baking Soda Rx

To tell if the baking soda that's made countless voyages with you is still good,put ¼ teaspoon of it in 1 tablespoon vinegar. If it fizzes, it's stillfresh.

Simple Brass Protectant

To keep all brass surfaces and hardware looking their best, apply a protectivecoating of a polymer polish. Cabin brass should be protected with lemon oil.

Restoring Lacquered Brass

To remove chipping lacquer from coated brass, remove the brass fitting and soakit in a mixture of 1 cup baking soda and 1 gallon boiling water. Afterward, youcan either relacquer the object or clean and polish it as you would uncoatedbrass.

Rust Be Gone

A gentle method of removing rust from deck metal is to get out your baking sodapaste (1 tablespoon baking soda to 1 teaspoon water) and wipe down deck metalwith a clean, damp cloth. Scrub the mixture gently with a small piece ofaluminum foil. Buff with a dry paper towel.

To remove tough rust from boat metal, tools left on board, or the bumper of yourtow vehicle, dip bronze or stainless steel wool in mineral spirits and rub offthe rust. For the highest luster, wipe down afterward with a wadded ball ofaluminum foil, shiny side out.

Quick Chrome Cleanups

To clean small polished surfaces such as on instrument gauges or electronics,wet a soft cloth with rubbing alcohol or window cleaner and wipe gently.

For chrome that is tarnished, rub on whitening toothpaste. And while you've gotyour mother-in-law's toothbrush out ... whitening toothpaste also works wonderson scratches on Plexiglas windscreens.

You can clean the chrome bumper on your tow vehicle by sprinkling baking sodaonto a moist sponge and rubbing it onto the bumper. Let sit for 5 minutes, andthen hose off. Applying the baking soda with a moist, synthetic scouring padworks well for difficult spots. Buff dry with a soft rag.

Keep Your Gilt Glittering

To make gilt fittings and fixtures gleam, wipe down with a rag lightly dipped inturpentine.

Gold detailing on boats, which is becoming popular of late, can be cleaned witha mixture of 1 teaspoon cigarette ash (yes, cigarette ash!) or baking soda injust enough water to make it into a paste. Rub on the paste with a clean, softcloth, rinse with cool water, and then buff it dry with a chamois.

A Pickle a Day ...

Sweet pickle juice cleans just about everything copper, from dirty ends onelectrical wires to galley cooking pans.

Preserve That Pewter

To restore those tarnished old nautical treasures made of pewter, rub down withthe outer leaves of a head of cabbage (we're not making this one up!). Buff to ashine with a clean, soft cloth.

Frugal Polishing

To make a canister of powdered metal cleaner last twice as long, tape off halfof the shaker holes. This also helps you apply the powdered cleanser only to theareas you wish to scrub.

Let Your Socks Do the Waxing

An easy way to polish tubular railings is to put an old sock over your hand,apply a polymer polish, and get busy. By curving your hand around the railing,you'll be able to cover more area, more completely, in less time.

Stuck Screw Solutions

Cola and other carbonated sodas poured on a rusted screw or bolt help loosen it.

When a stubborn screw refuses to come out, tighten it a tiny bit first to breakits hold on the material it's screwed into. If it wasn't screwed in as far as itcould go, it should be much easier to remove now.

Prevent Corrosion: The Unwanted Passenger

To keep spare nails, screws, and other small parts from rusting, use an emptyface- or hand-cream jar. Not only does it keep the spare parts organized, butthe greasy residue in the jar helps prevent rust.

To prevent corrosion on infrequently used tools you carry on board foremergencies, coat them with a thin layer of oil and wrap them in plastic wrap.Placing carpenter's chalk in a toolbox helps absorb moisture and also preventscorrosion.

Another effective anticorrosion technique for tools is to store them in a woodenbox with camphor and sawdust.

All new boat tools should be protected with the following antirust,anticorrosion coating: ¼ cup lanolin and ¼ cup petroleum jelly. Heatuntil melted, and stir until blended. While the mixture is still warm (you canreheat it in a microwave for no more than 5 seconds, as needed), paint it onyour tools with a cheap paintbrush. Allow to dry.

Quickie Corrosion Cleanup

For a quick cleanup of corroded tools and those with surface rust, lightly dipbronze wool in kerosene and use some elbow grease to rub the offending areas.Then use a balled-up piece of aluminum foil to rub hard. Wipe off the residuewith a paper towel, and apply a fine coating of olive oil. NOTE:Do not work with kerosene near an open flame.

FIBERGLASS CLEANING AND REPAIR, AND GENERAL DECK MAINTENANCE

Pros' Secrets for Showroom Shine Fiberglass

For a quick and gentle gelcoat cleaner that leaves behind a nice shine, mix 1tablespoon ammonia and 1 cup 70 percent isopropyl alcohol in 1 pint of water.Wash down the boat as usual.

To get a truly glistening showroom shine out of your gelcoat, use grandmother'shandy remedy of 2 tablespoons cornstarch, ½ cup household ammonia, and½ cup white vinegar, stirred until dissolved in 1 gallon warm water.

Homemade All-Purpose Boat Cleaners

Pouring ½ cup baking soda, ½ cup white vinegar, and 1 cup ammoniamixed in 1 gallon warm water into a spray bottle creates a handy all-purposeboat cleaner that not only works on fiberglass deck and hull stains but is greatfor general head cleaning and cabin use.

For a more gentle all-purpose deck and cabin cleaner, mix 1 quart warm water, 1teaspoon liquid soap, 1 teaspoon borax, and 1 teaspoon vinegar. Store in a spraybottle. It works on fiberglass, metal, the head, cabin walls, floors,countertops, and more.

Leave the Household Cleaners at Home

Household detergents, such as liquid kitchen and laundry soap, should never beused to wash a boat because they have a high pH to cut through stubborn grease.If not washed off thoroughly, this pH can permanently etch your boat's gelcoat.

Rain, Rain, Go Away

Cut through saltwater stains and acid rain buildup on a fiberglass deck with 3tablespoons ammonia in ¾ cup water.

Sticking with Cleaning

Is the fiberglass area around your helm sticky to the touch? Clean it with amixture of talcum powder and just enough water to make it into a paste. Rub onwith a clean cloth or paper towel, allow to sit for several minutes, and ruboff.

Your Deck Deserves a Cool Soda

Rust stains that haven't penetrated the gelcoat of your fiberglass can often bescrubbed away with a mixture of cola and enough salt to make it gently abrasive.Rinse thoroughly. Cola and salt are the enemy of rust discoloration.

Warning: Water Can Be Bad for Your Boat

Want to get rid of hard water deposits on your hull and deck? Wipe it down withfull-strength white vinegar, and then clean as usual. Vinegar helps dissolve thehard water spots and make them easier to remove.

Beware of acid rain. Its harmful effects can be activated by dew or fog, as wellas rain. If your boat is stored uncovered, rinse and dry it regularly, evenbetween washings, to prevent acid rain damage, which occurs when the clean waterin the acid rain evaporates and the remaining acidic water eats into thefiberglass or painted surface. The process escalates when the sun heats thedroplets and the fiberglass or paint.

Get Rid of Nature's Stains

Bird droppings on deck can be removed by covering them with a rag dipped incooking oil. Allow to sit until the hardened droppings loosen.

Parking your boat under a tree means you're bound to get some sap drippings onit, but sometimes you don't have a choice. To remove the sap, use the tarremover sold in auto parts stores.

The Immaculate Deck

Black streaks on a fiberglass deck can be removed by rubbing with baking sodapaste.

Shoe scuff marks from guests who don't own boat shoes can be easily removed froma fiberglass deck by rubbing with a pencil eraser or fine, dry bronze wool.

Lemon extract also removes some black scuff marks on a fiberglass deck or hull,as well as some marks on vinyl.

If a careless crew member dropped a cigarette on deck, you can avoid a nastybrown stain by using an oxalic acid—or hydrochloric acid—basedcleaner (rust stain remover for fiberglass). If the cigarette left a burn mark,sand down any raised edges around the burned area with 320-grit sandpaper andslowly fill in the burn indentation. Paint over any surrounding sanded area withcolor-matched gelcoat.

Remove gum from a fiberglass or teak deck or metal railings by placing an icecube directly on the sticky gum and letting it sit for a few minutes. This makesthe gum cold and hard, so it should pop cleanly off the surface, without theneed for harsh chemicals. This also works on cabin carpets.

Avoid Cleaning by Keeping It Clean

Want absolutely perfect-looking fiberglass when you're done cleaning? Squeegeeyour hull and deck area dry.

Carry a Welcome Aboard doormat aboard and put it out every time you dock. Use agunwale cover when allowing guests to board from the dock. Dirt that isn'tbrought onto the boat doesn't have to be cleaned off.

Getting Your Money's Worth

When your pump bottles of liquid boat cleaner, engine cleaner, or other liquidsget so low that there isn't enough resulting suction for the pump to work, tosssome marbles or small, clean stones into the bottle until they raise the liquidlevel sufficiently to cover the bottom of the intake tube.

You're Only as Good as Your Sponges

A sponge performs best if you dip only one-quarter of it into thecleaner—and we're talking wide side down here. The other three-quartersprovides the necessary handhold and additional absorption needed to preventdrips.

Never bleach your sponges, or they'll disintegrate sooner. Flushing themthoroughly with water immediately after cleaning should be sufficient for non-food-service sponges.

The Practical Mopper

Put bicycle hand grips on the back half and midway down the handle of your boat-wash mop or long-handled brush to make it easier to hold and more controllable.The rubber surface also helps hold the mop upright when leaned against afiberglass cabin or hull. A couple of small nails will hold the handles in placeif the fit between the grip and the wooden pole isn't tight enough.

Never wring out your deck mop with your hands. It may have picked up a smallsharp object and you might cut your hand. Use a mop wringer or your shoe. Butremember, hosing is easier and usually more effective than mopping.

Starting Out Clean

Clean your hands before—not after—cleaning the boat. Rub liquid soapinto your hands before washing down your boat and don't rinse it off just yet;the liquid soap protects your hands from dirt and, temporarily, from the dryingeffects of most cleaning chemicals, and after you're done and rinse off theliquid soap you'll have hands that you can take to a fine restaurant immediatelyafterward.

Cleaning with hard water is like cleaning with a perpetually dirty rag. Add awater softener such as Calgon to your boat wash bucket before beginningcleaning.

The 5-Cent Polish Test

Want to know if it is time to apply a new coat of polish to the boat? Hose downyour boat. If the resulting water spots are bigger than a nickel, it's time toapply a fresh coating of a polymer polish.

Clues about Caulk

For professional-looking beads of silicone or other sealants, push—don'tpull—the sealant cartridge. Mask both sides of the bead first, and finishthe job by smoothing the goop with a wet finger. Misting the goop with watercauses it to skin over, allowing you to use the boat sooner.

The can-opener blade of a Swiss Army knife or a Leatherman multitool is theworld's best caulk-removing tool. Simply run the can opener along both sides ofthe bead while applying steady pressure. The dry caulk should come out clean andin long strips.

Don't give in to the temptation to use a cheap off-brand caulk on your boat,especially in the head area. Inexpensive caulk can turn black in less than twoyears, and no amount of scrubbing undoes the discoloration.

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Excerpted from QUICK & EASY BOAT MAINTENANCE by SANDY LINDSEY. Copyright © 2012 by The McGraw-Hill Companies. Excerpted by permission of The McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

Edition details

• Publisher: International Marine/Ragged Mountain Press
• Publication date: 2012
• Language: English
• ISBN 10: 0071789979
• ISBN 13: 9780071789974
• Binding: Paperback
• Edition number: 2
• Number of pages: 160