How do you organise a first ascent of an unclimbed mountain peak?
Join Angela Benham on her first climbing expedition to the Indian Himalayas—that so nearly ended in tragedy—and find out. Share the conflicts and the fears, the frustrations and the pain. Revel in the humour and the joy, the excitement and the thrills—not to mention the innumerable meetings! Pick your way through the maze of moraine and with her reach the virgin summit of Shambhu Ka Qilla – the Fortress of Shiva.
In reading Lucky To Be Alive: A First Expedition to the Himalayas you will discover what having ‘good luck’ means.
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May 16th 2001. The day that could have been my last. I didn’t know it as I stood at the bottom of that dark and threatening mountain but oh my, I was full of concerns. The venture was too frightening, too fraught with dangers and risks and fears. What on earth was I doing there?
Despite our uncertainty about the weather the decision was to ascend. Colin, Andrew and I tied onto the rope. As we began to move slowly upwards Chris, Titch and Roly arrived and started to discuss whether to put crampons on straightaway. It soon became clear that crampons were essential and as I balanced awkwardly on the icy slope to put mine on I could see Titch and the others clipping into theirs in the relative comfort of the level glacier.
Our six head torches moved slowly up the South face of the mountain. In places the snow, being deep and wet, was not easy to negotiate. One steep section was covered in ice-covered gravel upon which it was very difficult to get a secure purchase even with crampon points. Colin led the way ahead of us putting in protection where he could. At times I sensed from Andrew’s murmurs and sighs that there was a wish that more protection was being used.
Suddenly we came to a halt and Titch, Chris and Roly caught up with us. Colin was momentarily unsure which way to go. We stood for a while and for the first time I became fully aware of the bitterness of the wind cutting into my face. All was dark except the downward sweep of the snow slope beneath my feet. Carefully we began to traverse the slope when there was the long swishing sound of spindrift sliding down from above.
"Oh, my God," I thought. "It’s going to avalanche."
Swish, swish – the snow kept coming burying my hand and my ice axe. Nobody moved or said a word. We waited, stood like six pins waiting to be bowled into the void. Then the snow sighed and stopped and I whispered to Andrew, "I’m scared."
"You’re committed now," Andrew replied matter-of-factly. "There’s no turning back."
"No turning back. No turning back," I thought and knew it was exactly true. There was no arguing with it. I had rejected the option of turning my back on the mountain. Was this a decision that I would regret and rue or worst still be the death of me? I didn’t want to die here in the mountains. I wanted to see everybody at home again. My life was good and precious. Why had I chosen to risk it I asked myself? Was it really worth it?
With a sick churning of my stomach I remembered the February morning that fateful brown envelope had appeared on my mat and changed the course of my life.
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