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In November 1938, when I was not yet five, President Ubico commemorated the seventh anniversary of his rule with a Feria Nacional that was to rival in everything but size the World’s Fair in New York. I was taken to the fair by pretty Edna, who had just turned sixteen and was wearing lipstick and silk stockings for the first time. The jasmine scent she had sprayed on herself imparts a sickly sweet redolence to my memories of that day.
The most interesting place in all the fair was a large area encircled by a tall bamboo fence. In one corner of this enclosure, behind a smaller fence guarded by soldiers, a group of Lacandones lived in huts of bamboo and thatch. The men on display wore dirty white shifts, and they had lighter skins than the Indians I saw in the street - lighter even than El Sincarne, the crippled beggar Elvira had said was a Lacandon. Like El Sincarne’s the hair of the Lacandones grew down to their shoulders, so you could not be certain of their sex. But unlike El Sincarne, whose hair was straight and smooth, their hair was thickly matted, as if it had never been combed. Edna said they rubbed ox-dung on their hair, which is why it was so unruly; but she smiled when she said this, so I took it to be a joke. All the Lacandones walked in a half-crouch, as if the roofs of their huts were too low. One of the men came out of his hut and walked right to the place at the fence where we stood. He looked down at me with sad, beautiful eyes and made a noise in his throat. "Tennh," he said again, and stuck his hand through a hole in the fence like the chimpanzee in the zoo. But a soldier pulled him away before I could decide whether to give him a coin or a stale chocolate in my trouser pocket, as my heart thumped against my ribs.
Outside one of the huts a woman weaved on a loom a beautiful cloth with bands of bright colours running across it. Edna said she was just an ordinary Indian from Solola, not a Lacandona. She said the Ladandones were as old as the Maya, who had lived in Guatemala many years before the Spanish arrived.
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