Men s fashion, particularly the trends involving undergarments, was once reserved for the elite; today it has become democratised, clear proof of social progress.The aestheticism of the body so highly valued by the Greeks seems to have regained a prominent place in the masculine world. Mirroring the evolution of society s values, the history of underwear also highlights the continuous, dancing exchange that exists between women s styles and men s fashion. Undergarments are concealed, flaunted, stretched or shortened, establishing a game between yesterday s illicit and today s chic and thereby denouncing the sense of disgrace that these simple pieces of clothing used to betray. In this work, Shaun Cole endeavours to re-establish for the first time, through well-researched socio-economic analysis, the importance of men s underwear in the history of costume from ancient times to today. A reflection of technological progress, this study is full of surprises and powerful reflections on man s relationship with his body.
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If there was a time when men's fashion, and in particular that of underwear, was reserved exclusively for the elite, today it has been democratized, proving that our society has in fact evolved. The aesthetics of the body, valued so much by the Greeks, seem to have rediscovered a prominent place for men. Mirroring the evolution of morals, the history of underwear also highlights the constant flurry of borrowing that has taken place between women's and men's fashion. At different times underwear was hidden under clothes, allowed to peek out, or got longer, and got shorter, establishing a game between the taboo of the past and the fashion of the present, as well as repudiating the notion that one's identity could be betrayed by a simple piece of clothing.
Shaun Cole is a writer and lecturer, curator and Course Leader for MA History and Culture of Fashion at London college of fashion, University of the Arts London. As a curator for the Victoria and Albert Museum, he oversaw several exhibitions, most notably Graphic Responses to AIDS(1996), Fashion on Paper (1997), Dressing the Male (1999), Black British Style (2004). Shaun Cole has also written and lectured on the subject of menswear and homosexual fashion. His publications include Don We Now Our Gay Apparel : Gay Men s Dress in the Twentieth Century(2000) and Dialogue: Relationships in Graphic Design (2005).
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