RSN Essential Stitch Guides: Goldwork - Softcover

McCook, Helen

4.27

37 ratings by Goodreads

9781844487028: RSN Essential Stitch Guides: Goldwork

Softcover

ISBN 10: 1844487024 ISBN 13: 9781844487028

Publisher: Search Press, 2012

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The Royal School of Needlework (RSN) teaches hand embroidery to the highest standard and is well respected all over the world. It not only upholds the traditions of English embroidery that go back many hundreds of years, but is constantly taking embroidery forward in new and innovative ways. This series of Essential Stitch Guides has been produced in close collaboration with the RSN with the aim of providing a set of definitive works on traditional embroidery techniques. All of the authors were chosen by the RSN and all are graduate apprentices of the Royal School. Goldwork is all about the interplay of colour, texture and light, and it is this quality that is at the heart of Helen McCook's work. The book starts with a historical account of goldwork, then moves on to the materials and equipment required, framing up, how to transfer a design on to fabric and how to start and finish a thread. The main section of the book then covers all of the essential stitches and techniques through clear, step-by-step diagrams and photographs, coupled with beautiful, close-up photographs showing how then can be used in a finished piece. These include couching, bricking, basketweave, cutwork, spangles, s-ing, pearl purl, plate and kid. The book ends with a section in which the techniques described in the previous section are combined to create finished pieces, all beautifully and exquisitely worked by the author.

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Review:

Jan 13

Have the 140 years of Royal School of Needlework knowledge and expertise at your fingertips with this new addition to the Essential Stitch Guide range. Goldwork by Helen McCook is an invaluable reference for any stitcher at home whether a beginner or proficient in the technique. An extensive range of effects and stitches in Goldwork are fully explained such as the application of purls and plate, couching effects and Or Nu�. There is a thorough introduction to the fabric and threads, framing up the work, getting started and design advice. The book is a vital companion to anyone with a love of Goldwork or the desire to try it for the very first time.

, NEW STITCHES

Feb/Mar 13

This book offers clear instructions with beautiful examples of historical and contemporary pieces, all of an exceptionally high standard. Helen McCook shows you how o create stunning goldwork embroideries using traditional techniques and, as one would expect, this hand embroidery is of the highest standard, sharing with the reader developing techniques and new and innovative ways to achieve what is a very ancient art form. You may be interested to note that Helen was part of the RSN team who worked on the wedding dress of the Duchess of Cambridge. Another particularly intriguing facet to the art of metal-thread embroidery is the fact that it is an ever-changing art form, not only in style of design, but also in its basest form; the very thread with which you work is made to change. The tarnishing process is a natural part of this technique to the extent that some might call goldwork the study of elegant decay; in its response to time and the elements it has its own evolution.

, Fabrications

Feb/Mar 13

Not only is Helen McCook a technically accomplished goldworker, as you might expect of a graduate of the RSN, but she brings a fresh approach to this ancient craft. Helen finds that a 'particularly intriguing facet to the art of metal-thread embroidery is the is the fact that it is an ever changing art form, not only in style of design but also ... the very thread with which you work is made to change. The tarnishing process ... might be said to define in some way goldwork as "the study of elegant decay"'. Certainly, Helen's work is a study in elegance. Part of the team chosen to work on the Duchess of Cambridge's wedding dress, Helen's meticulous approach is displayed throughout this book.

, Stitch

Nov 12

Carefully worked examples are shown from design to completion in this new book on an old style of embroidery. The young author has studied at the Royal School of Needlework and spent some years working to gain experience with different firms. The clear sections on equipment, materials and the order of work make this a joy and inspiration. The stitches are divided into two sections – couching and cutwork – with a series of clear photographs explaining each stage. There are also helpful hints on handling and positioning threads. Familiar stitches are included in the section on combining techniques. The book has a spiral binding, which makes it lie completely flat for easy reference.

, Merseyside Embroiderer's Guild (megonline.co.uk)

Oct 12

A very good comprehensive little guide to goldwork techniques. As someone with experience in goldwork I would rate this book highly for the way it describes all the main techniques from elementary to advanced. I especially like how she uses traditional techniques in a contemporary way - the use of different coloured metals for example. Also lke the section on Or Nue which is quite different from other forms of goldwork. Photographs are very clear and I would think that anyone with no knowledge of goldwork would be able to produce a satisfactory piece from this book. A good book to have in your library.-"I. Sewell", Amazon

, Customer

Dec 12

RSN Goldwork and RSN Whitework: Both these books, although covering traditional needle work techniques, cover quite different approaches, with whitework looking very pure and pared down and the goldwork appearing very sumptuous and colourful. Whitework is introduced from its historical roots, but the feeling throughout the book is that, while retaining some of this history in the stitching and processes of working, the movement is into the contemporary period. Many designs have a modern feel to them, and there is some reworking of traditional pieces into up to date designs. The work in Goldwork is much denser, with more variety in the stitches and embellishments. The work looks more traditional, but there are a few pictures towards the end, where techniques are combined and more contemporary pieces showcased. Both books contain a huge selection of stitches and techniques, with an Order of Work given in both for a successful outcome. They are both well illustrated with clear instructions, and would act as both a good introduction and way of moving forward for anyone working in either discipline.

, Workshop On The Web

About the Author:

Having graduated from University of Central England in 2000 with a BA (Hons) in Printed and Dyed Textiles with Art History, and from the Royal School of Needlework apprenticeship in 2003, Helen went freelance for a year before taking up the post of Head of Textiles and Costume for Bonhams Auction House. Having handled a very exciting record-breaking sale of an 18th century court mantua dress, she decided to leave the post after three and a half years to become Atelier/Production Manager for Hand & Lock in central London, running their fashion and interiors embroidery workrooms, working with clients such as Swarovski, Kate Moss, Topshop, Vintage Topshop, Gucci, Asprey, John Stefanidis, Tom Ford, The Royal Opera House, Burberry, Bamfords, Adidas and Ben de Lisi. Images of garments displaying her work for fashion companies have been used in Vogue, Vanity Fair, Elle Collections and Hello Magazine. Helen went freelance in April 2008 and has been working on a range of projects including teaching, lecturing, designing, making, exhibiting and consultancy work on valuing, handling and displaying antique textiles. She also still teaches and lectures for the Royal school of Needlework at Hampton Court Palace on the Foundation Degree, Certificated courses and day classes and has also taught in San Francisco for the RSN and travels Britain extensively teaching and lecturing to adult education groups such as the Embroiderers Guild and private textile art groups. She also teaches for the National Gallery in Edinburgh and the National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh. Helen has displayed work in the Kitagawa Gallery in Tokyo, Japan as part of the British/Japanese Council celebration of 150 years trade. Her work has also been exhibited at Alexandra Palace, Hampton Court Palace, Shugborough Hall and Cumberland Lodge, Windsor Great Park. She has also had solo exhibitions at The Old Friary (Lichfield) and The Old High House (Stafford). Her work is in private collections worldwide. Helen had a very productive and exciting year in 2011 which included opening a Glasgow branch of the Royal School of Needlework to teach both day classes and the Certificate and Diploma Courses, being commissioned to design and work three hangings for Hampton Court Palace, designing a set of hassocks and overseeing the work for a prestigious private chapel and having the honour of working as part of the Royal School of Needlework team to embellish the wedding dress and shoes and create the veil for Katherine Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge.

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