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In riding along a country road it is likely to be considered an example of gringo brutalidad if one does not speak to every man, woman, and child one meets or overtakes. And completely to fulfil the requirements of rural etiquette, the greeting must be not collective but individual; everybody in one group murmurs something - usually "Adios" - for the especial benefit of everybody in the other.
Acquaintances take off their hats both when they meet and part, and I have heard a half-naked laborer bent double under a sack of coffee-berries murmur, "With your permission," as he passed in front of a bricklayer who was repairing a wall. Even the children - who are not renowned in other lands for observing any particular code of etiquette among themselves - treat one another, as a rule, with an astonishing consideration. Once in the plaza at Tehuacan I found myself behind three little boys of about six or seven who were sedately strolling around and around while the band played, quite in the manner of their elders. One of them had a cent, and after asking the other two how they would most enjoy having it invested, he bought from a dulcero one of those small, fragile creations of egg and sugar known, I believe, as a "kiss." This he at once undertook to divide, with the result that when the guests had each received a pinch of the ethereal structure, there was nothing left for the host but two or three of his own sticky little fingers. he looked a trifle surprised for a moment, and I thought it would be only natural and right for him to demand a taste of the others. But instead of that he merely licked his fingers in silence and then resumed the promenade where it had been left off. However, the general seraphicness of Mexican children is a chapter in itself.
"Is that your horse?" you ask of a stranger with whom you have entered into conversation on the road.
"No, senor - it is yours", he is likely to reply with a slight bow. And perhaps it is by reason of formulae like this that the great public characterizes Mexican politeness as "all on the surface - not from the heart". The stranger's answer, naturally, is just a pretty phrase. But all politeness is largely verbal and the only difference between the politeness of Mexico and the politeness of other countries consists of the fact that, first, the Spanish language is immensely rich in pretty phrases, and, secondly, that literally everyone makes use of them.
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