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Jean-Paul Kauffmannn is irresistibly drawn to Courland, a buffer between the Germanic and Slav worlds. With the Gulf of Riga to the north, the Baltic to the west and Lithuania at its southern border, and now part of modern Latvia, Courland was once occupied by Nazi Germany and returned to Soviet Russia after the war; this nowhere land of wide skies and forests, ruined castles and ex-K.G.B. prisons remained largely inaccessible until 1991. Kauffmann's digressive travels at the wheel of a Skoda become a search for an excavator of tombs and an investigation into the whereabouts of a former lover, and he follows in the footsteps of the French monarch, Louis XVIII, for whom Courland was once a place of exile. With this book and The Dark Room at Longwood, he has come to be known as a witty and erudite observer of the world's most desolate reaches.
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