Review:
The Joy of Truffles is a whole lot more than a cookbook, though it does include recipes. It's a beautiful tribute to one of the most exulted ingredients: the truffle. The truffle's name stems from the fact that it sets up home--inconsiderately--some five to 30 centimetres deep in the ground and causes the surface above it to rise slightly, a lifting that medieval people came to describe with the Latin term "terrae tuffolae". Written in a chatty, informal style, The Joy of Truffles describes the history of truffles, truffle hunting, and truffle markets, the most famous being in Lalbenque (France) and Alba (Italy). And if you don't have a truffle snuffling pig, goat or dog, the book gives good instructions on how to find the fungi yourself. If you happen to be in the right spot in Italy or France, just lie down on the ground and look for "Suillia" flies, which often lay their eggs above truffles. Incidentally, truffles get their distinctive smell from a substance called testosterase, which is almost identical to the sexual hormone testosterone. The Joy of Truffles is beautifully photographed and the colour photographs of food are good enough to frame. The recipes range from Ceci alla Piemontese (Cabbage Stew with ChickPeas and White Truffles) to Foie de veau à le Boulangère (Slices of Calves' Liver with Glazed Shallots and Périgord Truffle Sauce). But at the risk of spoiling your appetite, it's important to remember that truffles don't come cheap. At £1,000 kilogram, truffles are not the sort of ingredient you want to waste. And if they are just too expensive for you, buy The Joy of Truffles instead--at around £15 it's almost a give-away. --Dale Kneen
Synopsis:
This text contains a complete survey of truffles, including starter, main course and dessert recipes from leading trufflemeister Patrick Jaros.
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