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Isabel, his wife, arrived in Damascus from London on December 31, 1869 with a mountain of luggage and five dogs. She had come expecting, as she wrote in her diary the day she left England, to find in Damascus "my Pearl, the Garden of Eden, the Promised Land, my beautiful white City with her swelling domes and tapering minarets, her glittering golden crescents et in green of every shade." But upon arrival she saw only barren yellow mountains, ugly shrubbery, wild dogs, and offal in the streets. In the first stages of cultural shock she felt "six times farther away from home than when living in Brazil". Unwilling to be locked up at night within the Damascus gates, Burton insisted on taking a house on a river in the Kurdish village of Salihiyay, on the foothills of the mountains to the north. It was a spacious house, with a garden full of apricot, lemon and orange trees. There was a fountain in the patio, and the flat roof was laden with potted flowers.
To the five dogs - a St Bernard, two brindled bull-terriers, two Yarboroughs - the Burtons added a Kurdish pup, a camel, a white donkey, three goats, a pet lamb, a Persian cat, as well as chickens, turkeys, geese, ducks, guinea fowls, and pigeons. Later a Moslem leader gave them a panther cub that had been trapped in the desert, which soon became their favourite. "He used to sleep by our bedside," Isabel wrote. "He had bold bad black eyes that seemed to say, ‘Be afraid of me.’" For a time she spent most of her days keeping the pets from eating each other.
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