Andalusian Rock Climbs: An Introductory Guide

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9781852841096: Andalusian Rock Climbs: An Introductory Guide
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A short distance inland are rolling hills and open farmland of true Andalusia, small white villages pepper the countryside and there is a whole different life-style. This is 'real' Spain, where it is not uncommon to see donkeys used for transport and oxen for ploughing the land. The life-style here has changed little in the last fifty years and the cult of 'manana' continues to rule the people. The area described in this guide is so far south (Malaga is only 120km from the North African coast) that the winters are exceptionally mild. The amount of rock available for climbing throughout this area is considerable but development has been at best somewhat erratic. By far the best known area is El Chorro and this is the ideal place to base yourself. There is a considerable variety of climbing both in grade and style with a remarkable number of high grade climbs. The Cotos provides fine slab pitches, not all of which are easy, Los Venenos offers "plonk on" face climbing and the Invento and Makindromo have some really steep pitches. Pocket pulling is available on several of the cliffs and big leads are the speciality of El Polverin. Mijas is very much an outcrop with short fierce and very safe pitches, and El Torcal presents acres of rock in a high and wild setting with an unusual style of climbing because of the erosion the rock has suffered. In all the areas described in this book the vast majority of the protection and all the belays are fixed and substantial. The author provides accurate details, stars, E grades and technical grades where possible, together with the Spanish equivalents. UK grades are given for all routes up to a 7a Spanish.

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