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Unless you are the kind of purist who insists that the only possible salad is a perfect, classically inclined Platonic essence of green salad, then Best-ever Salads may just possibly represent what the title suggests. A collection of more than 200 fresh and summery recipes, it starts with Light & Side Salads, including a pure "Lettuce and Herb Salad", the classic and very correct "Caesar Salad", "Turkish" and "Classic Greek" salads and a wonderfully luxurious "Fresh Ceps Salad", in which the ceps (porcini) and greens are dressed with an egg yolk and walnut oil dressing. Cooked Side Salads include "Rocket and Grilled Goat's Cheese Salad" and the Art-Deco "Russian Salad", as well as simple recipes which rely on utterly perfect ingredients, such as the plain but delicious "Tomato and Bread Salad" and "Grilled Pepper Salad". Main Course Salads kick off with the favourite "Salade Nicoise", in a beautifully rich version (it's one of those dishes which exist in an infinite number of forms), proceeding through an interesting collection of fish dishes to salad versions of "Chicken Maryland" and the New Orleans "Poor Boy" steak sandwich.
Special Occasion Salads feature such ceremonial treats as "Thai Scented Fish Salad", "Millionaire's Lobster Salad" and "Genoese Squid Salad"--the last typical of that city's cooking in its inventive combination of fish, potatoes and green beans. The final chapter on Fruit Salads ranges from simple but finely judged recipes such as "Watermelon, Ginger and Grapefruit Salad" to very grown up desserts such as "Tropical Fruit Gratin", a combination of fruits topped with a white-wine sabayon and flashed under the grill. One small warning. The recipe for Coleslaw with Pesto Mayonnaise suggests that bought pesto and mayonnaise will give as good results as home-made. This is simply not true: it will not. Bought mayonnaise is just acceptable but pesto in jars is a travesty. Make your own. It takes three minutes. --Robin Davidson
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