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White's is the kind of exemplary career afforded only to a few exceptionally gifted, driven individuals: "geniuses", if you like. In Charles Hennessy's Marco the engine propelling this startling narrative is a childhood striking in its archetypes. The brooding child from a housing estate on the fringes of Leeds, out poaching with his dogs and ferrets; the beautiful, gifted Italian mother dying inexplicably young; the belligerent father (who could "start a fight in an empty room") betraying her memory by bringing into the household a hated stepmother; the penniless youth in London chancing upon his mentors the Roux brothers; the subsequent astonishing trajectory and the portfolio of remarkable, sometimes great, restaurants--this is myth or folktale. Charles Hennessy has done a brisk, some might say hasty, job of telling this potent story, his chosen style producing on occasion bizarre effects ("In the unlikely purlieus of Ilkley, he had worshipped at the altar of French haute cuisine, but the services had been conducted by mere acolytes"). One might ask whether learning what one needs to know about Marco Pierre White is best achieved by reading his biography or by visiting his restaurants and eating his food, but those who opt for the former will find it here. --Robin Davidson
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