Cucina of Le Marche: A Chef's Treasury of Recipes from Italy's Last Culinary Frontier

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9780060741624: Cucina of Le Marche: A Chef's Treasury of Recipes from Italy's Last Culinary Frontier

Named a Best New Chef in America by Food & Wine and Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic by the James Beard Foundation, rising star Fabio Trabocchi offers a unique take on his native cuisine, that of the until-now-overlooked Le Marche region of Italy.

Every chef is a product of a place and a tradition. Fabio Trabocchi's soul is in the Italian province of Le Marche. Equidistant from Rome and Florence, Le Marche is on the Adriatic coast, bordered to the north by Emilia-Romagna, to the west by Tuscany and Umbria, and to the south by Lazio and Abruzzo. This geography accounts for the rich variety of Le Marche's food traditions. The first chefs of Le Marche assimilated recipes, ingredients, and techniques from visiting mariners from Greece and North Africa. In his debut cookbook, Trabocchi showcases his signature style of cooking—called "soulful and passionate—not pretentious" by Food & Wine—combining traditional elements of Italian cuisine with a contemporary European sensibility that draws on the many flavors he's experienced throughout his extensive travels and techniques honed at restaurants around the world.

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About the Author:

Fabio Trabocchi discovered his passion for cooking as a young boy, inspired by his father's love for food from his native region of Ancona, Italy. At the age when many chefs are still sharpening their skills and palates, he has already earned an impressive foothold in the culinary world. After winning the London Carlton Restaurant Award for Best New Chef in 1999, Fabio Trabocchi moved to the Washington, D.C., area to create his vision and concept for Maestro, where is the chef. Both he and the restaurant have won several accolades, including Maestro's being named by Gourmet as one of the World's Best Hotel Dining Rooms. In 2004 and 2003, he was nominated for Rising Star Chef by the James Beard Foundation, and in 2006 he won Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic, an award he also was nominated for in 2005.

From Publishers Weekly:

Trabocchi, chef at Maestro in Washington, D.C., is a native son of Le Marche, the Italian region that the New York Times recently deemed "the new Tuscany." Trabocchi grew up in the small town of Santo Stefano, and with assistance from Kaminsky (Pig Perfect) he achieves a lovely style that is rather low-key in comparison to the commanding tone many chefs affect in cookbooks. Trabocchi also does an excellent job of isolating the best, most characteristic recipes from Le Marche, as cucina marchigiana is often difficult to differentiate from that of Umbria or Emilia-Romagna. Yet what makes the food of Le Marche so special is its rustic quality, which is hard to imitate in American kitchens. It's fun to read about dishes like Roasted Suckling Pig Ascolana-Style and Turbot in Smoky Hay, but preparing them may be out of reach ("You will need to get clean green hay from a local farm," instructs the latter recipe). Fried Stuffed Olives Ascolana-Style, one of the region's classics, calls for pitting, stuffing (with a mixture of chicken liver and pork butt) and deep-frying 60 individual olives. There are less labor-intensive choices, such as Ancona's famous fish stew, and Trabocchi includes an excellent discussion of local wines. (Oct.)
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